Tuesday PM, September
9, 1997
DJ
- We welcome you back to this update
from Lanzhou City in north central China.
This city, which we've come upon on our
journey from Peking to Pari,s has a population
of 5 million. When you think about the
population of Minneapolis and Detroit
being quite not that much. The population
of Chicago, slightly lower. When you think
about the total population of Milwaukee,
St. Louis, Indianapolis, DeMoines and
Pittsburgh equating the population of
just one Chinese city, you begin to get
an appreciation for the scale, the order
of magnitude here in China. We tell you
these anecdotal comparisons to give you
an appreciation for what we're experiencing
so that by joining us on these update
reports, you to can experience our discovery.
I describe our arrival here in Lanzhou
City as sort of like Gulliver's Travels,
the Lilliputians people. The people here
are between 4 and 5 feet tall. The door
knobs on a very modern, elegant hotel,
every bit as comparable to any hotel in
North America, are about 3 feet off of
the floor level. The doors open from the
opposite side of doors in the nothern
and western hemisphere. So you see these
paradoxes between East and West as you
move through this extraordinary culture
and society.
We're joined by one of our
fellow co-travelers, participants and
competitors for this update. I'd like
to introduce Burt Richmond who is from
Chicago. Burt is operating and driving
a vehicle that is quite in contrast of
many of the vehicles. It is a French Citroen
which is a small volkswagon like car,
2 cylinders, I believe, that contrasts
to 8 cylinders in the 1954 Packard that
I and Carl are operating. There is in
this event a global competition between
attitudes and philosophies with regard
to the motorized automobile travel. That
is to say some people have very large,
heavy vehicles. The Packard, for example,
weighs 5,000 pounds. Burt tells me that
the Citreon weighs 1,200 pounds. So it
was in the 1907 and 1908 races. Some people
had very heavy machines, some people had
very light machines. As we travel on all
types of surfaces, elegant interstate
highways to absolutely brutal, punishing
road surfaces, whether they're asphalt
or dirt, the vehicles are exposed to just
incredible diversity of driving conditions
and so are the people. And this competition
is not about speed. We want to deemphasize
the notion of a race. This is a competition
of initiative, resourcefulness, perseverance
and of the tolerance of man designed automobiles.
So we've reached Lanzhou City, population
5 million, 25% of our way across China,
where we have a 24 hour rest period after
4 days of driving. We're approximately
the distance of Chicago or the Midwest
to Los Angeles from Beijing City. We're
on the Yellow River, one of the two major
rivers in China, the Yangtze and the Yellow.
The Yellow flows all the way from the
Himalayas across northern China, down
to Peking and then out into the Yellow
Sea. The Yellow river is a distance itself
of 1,000 miles. We'll that's an overview
of where we are and our circumstances
at this moment. We invite Burt Richmond
of Chicago to join our update and he has
some comments for his friends and family.
Burt, good morning to you. It's morning
time for us, it's actually nightime for
our friends back home. Burt, please share
with us your impressions of this incredible
journey.
Burt Richmond - Thank
you Don. One of the things that is in
such sharp contrast in this event is that
are very large and very small cars. We
have the smallest car as Don said, at
1,200 pounds and 600 CCs, that's just
slightly over half a liter. Most motorcycles
have an engine size of 750 CCs. We have
a totally different approach. Our engine
size is half the size of those VW Beetles.
So we have to do a lot of things about
speed management, weight management, fuel
management, etc. I'm going to try to not
make this too long, but an update. When
we picked up our car at the docks, Don
fortunately came to my rescue when we
discovered that both of our fuel tanks
were empty. That was a requirement for
packing them in the container and we actually
complied and I think we were the only
ones that did because everybody else drove
off under their own power. Our ride back
to Beijing, almost 2 hours, was very slow
and very hot. I've driven this car all
over Europe at 65 miles an hour, sometimes
70, and we had a tough time even getting
to 48 miles an hour. We spent the next
two days rearranging and rethinking the
load, repacked a lot of boxes, got rid
of a lot of stuff, begged a few people
to take some extra tires. Linda Dodwell,
our friend from San Francisco, agreed
to take a case of oil and oil filters
for us and a few other people helped along
the way. Somethings that were thought
to be necessary were quickly jettisoned
and it was interesting that there was
a pile that somebody started and by the
time of the second day of car reprep,
this thing must have been 10 feet high
and 20 feet long of stuff that people
were throwing out. But we got rid of the
excess heat inside the car by putting
some duct work out through the sunroof,
connected up the road lights, readjusted
the timing and basically got ourselves
prepared to take on this journey. Everybody
was up early the next morning at 5:30,
which we've now determined is the normal
start for this activity, which means up
at 4:30, which if we back that up, pretty
much have to eat and go to sleep. We got
ourselves underway. We all started numerically.
We are car 41, so we more or less know
where we sit in the pecking order. Made
our way to the Great Wall, which was with
a police escort. The good news about that
is that we were able to recalculate, or
finally calculate our trip rally meter,
which is a very complicated computer that
tells time, speed, distance, average speed,
time to destination, etc. Rich Newman,
my co-driver, is having a wonderful time
playing with that and his magical watch,
which does everything except tell time
and altitude. I think it even tells the
Dow Jones averages. We got ourselves to
the Great Wall in convey with, as I said,
police escort. Grand ceremony of bands,
typical brass bands, red carpet, in this
case, it was a red arch with 4 dancing
dragons, many speeches and we were officially
beginning the Peking to Paris Road Rally
of 16,000 kilometers, which is just under
10,000 miles. By the time I go back and
forth a couple of times, I'm sure that
we'll get ourselves over the 10,000 miles.
We had an interesting day just getting
ourselves along the route. One of the
things that we had done initially was
filled up the auxillary tank and our normal
fuel tank and I remember vividly that
as the man was filling the second tank,
I could feel the rear bumper slide down
as the whole car lowered. One of the things
I had to do was use up that fuel and give
it away and now we're operating on the
standard tank. Couldn't get the fuel gauge
to work, but we've figured how to use
up whatever is in the auxillary tank and
then switch over to the master tank that
does have a fuel gauge. Getting gas along
the way is interesting because, while
some of them look like modern pumps that
we're use to, most of them only register
the quantity of fuel that has been dispensed,
so it reads in liters. 163 would be 16.3
liters, but there's no indication as to
whether it's diesel fuel, 70 octane, 90
octane or 93. So that gets a little tricky
and takes maybe a half hour to get all
of that done just for 5 gallons of fuel.
Not very expensive, seems to me it's costing
us $2-$3 a gallon. This is a country that
can provide its own fuel very easily.
We had an interesting second day of sort
of running out of gas because we got on
one of these major highways, toll ways,
a brand new road, we were the only ones
on it and there were no fuel stops along
the way. What we wound up doing is stopping
right next to an exit, at this point,
we were far behind and we had our own
police escort and they took my spare can
and me and took me off the highway to
a gas station. We filled it up, came back.
They insisted in putting the gas in the
tank themselves. I put one of my white
giveaway hats that has the American Flag,
Chicago, the car name, people name and
the Peking to Paris rally on it and I
gave one of the officers my hat. The other
guy looked very disappointed so I opened
up our box and gave him one of the hats
also. They both put them on and then they
insisted that I pose for a photo and the
one officer who had his police hat on
put that on my head, so now I have two
policemen in white painter's caps on either
side of me with the car in the background.
That was one interesting anecdote. The
next day we had a problem. Thought that
we were never going to get through this
whole thing. The car gradually lost power,
it just got slower and at one point in
order to get up a modest hill, we had
to be in first gear. We got frustrated
with that after 40 minutes and pulled
over to the side. Richard stayed in the
car and I told him to step on the gas
and immediately it became apparent that
a screw had vibrated loose from these
poor roads and had jammed the throttle,
or actually it had blocked it. Once we
took out the tool box and repaired that,
magically, we had a huge 90% horsepower
increase and once again, up and running.
The car seems to run better in cool weather,
because in the morning we can barrel right
along and sort of keep up with everybody
else, remember this is a car that can
perhaps go 50 miles an hour when everything
is running right and we were feeling very
confident and actually made up a little
bit of time. Remember, a rally is a speed,
time distance thing. There are check points,
etc. We were actually ahead of schedule.
We were slowing dramatically whenever
there was a major bump or railroad tracks
and as we saw how wonderful the suspension
was, we sort of went at them a little
bit more agressively. Well we finally
hit the pot hole of all pot holes that
ate our car and there was a huge noise,
Richard's door flew open, the rear view
mirror swung back and hit the rear door
and just became pieces of glass crystal.
But the most major thing was the right
front wheel and suspension were on the
ground. We were now a 3 wheel car. Fortunately,
it was the right front wheel so we just
kind of skidded in that general direction
and parked on the side of the road. And
where no one had been, suddenly there
were 20-30 Chinese peasants, farmers,
I don't even know where they came from,
but they came out of the woodwork. We
got the car up in the air with our jack.
I discovered upon investigation what the
problem was. Took off the broken part,
it was an eye bolt that had broken on
the torsion bar suspension, held it up
and I was mumblling about making fire
to fix steel and a farmer said, "Yes,
Yes" and shook his head. I went with
him back to his little village, into his
mud stucco house and low and behold there
was an arc welder with rods laying on
the floor, steel and various pieces of
junk on the floor. The floor was incidentally
is just the ground, it's just mud or dirt.
But he had a grinder and he had a big
knife switch on the wall and he plugged
in his grinder and reached up, threw the
switch and eureka! there was electricity.
Image that, electricity in one of these
mud huts. We ground the opening smooth.
Found something to fill the void. We welded
it up. He asked me if I thought we should
reinforce the whole thing by welding another
piece of band around the end of the eye
bolt. I agreed. We searched around and
found something about the right width.
Between bending it and hammering it and
using a vise to shape it, we were able
to TAP the whole end of this eye bolt.
How did we do all of this conversation?
By pointing, drawing in the dirt, shaking
heads, but we got it all back together
again. I wanted him to come with me back
to the car so he could see what his handywork
did. He and I laid on the ground underneath
the car, put the thing back together in
about 15 minutes and we were off. Except
now we have a serious lift to the right
because the one thing I didn't know how
to do, or couldn't figure it out even
after reading the owner's manual, maybe
it was the sun or the heat or perhaps
it was just low brain power, I couldn't
adjust the suspension, which in fact,
is adjustable. My co-driver, Mr. Newman,
suggested perhaps I should just take it
a little slower this time. He's still
seething about me going too fast in the
first place and I got a lecture. He asked
if I knew what the co-driver's job was?
And I said, "yes, your job is to
navigate and tell the driver what to do."
And he said, "Right. Don't forget
it." And so we went along very slowly.
We got to the hotel that night and Johan
Van der Laan from Holland and Maurizio
Selci, who is from Italy living in London,
gave us advice as to how to adjust the
suspension and ultimately Johan put on
his coveralls, got a special tool out
and in 10 minutes he adjusted and tuned
the entire chasis except that it was late,
it was dark, we were doing this by flashlight
at 10:30 at night and it was almost correct,
but we were off by three quarters of an
inch on Richard's side. We had overadjusted
it and the car was too high. Well, we
were looking for shortcuts to economize
on time. Richard suggested to Johan that
we measure the chasis with the two drivers
aboard. Well, due to the fact that Richard
outweighs me by 50 pounds, ha! Amazing,
now the suspension was perfectly tuned
to the actual occupants. It just means
that Richard can't drive and I can't navigate,
which is just fine because I don't understand
the computer. So I think it's a good team.
As we said, it works. The next day we
were off and running and as long as it's
cool, everything seems to run just fine.
We climbed the 8,200 foot pass. Did it
at normal speeds. Passed many cars that
were kind of poking along. We passed major
herds of two humped camels. I can't remember,
I think that's bactrian, the dromedaries
are probably the ones that are in North
Africa. People were slowing down to look
at the camels, but we were preoccupied
with keeping forward momentum and kept
rolling along. The good news is we got
up the hill. Our suspension is adjusted
righ, timing on the points, etc. and the
engine is running right and yesterday
we really felt, while we were in Inner
Mongolia, which is where we are now, that
we are getting a sense of what rural China
looks like. Everybody is very friendly.
We are watching people winnowing the wheat.
We see them with the long stick with the
smaller stick attached to it and they're
beating the wheat on the ground - thrashing
it, and then they're picking them up in
these little round straw baskets, throwing
it up in the air and the chase blows away
and the wheat stays with it. It interesting
that things that we've heard about that
took place 200 years ago are still currently
in use and as Don said, here we are in
a modern city with beautiful high rise
buildings, a city nobody's ever heard
of, and yet, it's home to 5 million people.
Everything is going well. We're having
a wonderful time. Stopping to take lots
of pictures because, while this is a race,
it is also a collection of images, which
we will share with all of you at the end.
Thanks for listening. Hope you enjoyed
this.
DJ - Burt, thank
you for your verbal images and your graphic
description of what it's like driving
from Peking to Paris. Well here in Lanzhou
City as we look out the window, we see
the air is gray. This is a city that is
suffering from it's success. It's a city
that has a skyline like Dallas or Houston
and has the economic vibrancy of Peking,
but it also is suffering from being the
most air polluted city in the world -
Lanzhou, China. As a result of that, a
very successful Chinese businessman, whose
hometown this is, has vowed to tear down
a moutain to allow the wind from the North
to come into the city and to clean the
air out, hopefully. So one of the mountains
surrounding this city is in the process
of being washed down to try to let more
air into the basin of the city. The city
is sort of like Denver. It sits in a bowl
at the basin of some modest size mountains
that surround it on all sides. Our next
update in 12 hours will be directed towards
the Rogers Elementary School in Marshalltown,
Iowa. We'll have Mary and Pat Brooks join
us. They're driving a Buick Woody station
wagon. And they'll be here to talk to
all the school children who are following
their activities on the Internet and the
Brooks will be here to speak to those
children directly by means of the update
telephone network. That's this report,
we'll see you in 12 hours. We're well,
you be well. Thank you.