Sunday, September 28,
1997
DJ - Where in the world are you?
Welcome to the update with Carl and Don.
We're in one of those places in the world
where you're just not sure how it fits
in with the big picture. We're in a place
where it's unlikely that you would ever
go. It's a fascinating place, given the
history and the number of people, but
a very remote part of the world. Our location
is right in the center of the country
of Pakistan, and the city tonight at the
end of the 23rd day, is Multan. There
are 800,000 who live in this Islamic city
right in the heart of Pakistan.
Our drive from Lahore to
Multan today was across a countryside
that was covered with cotton fields. We
saw a Pioneer Seed warehouse and distribution
and research center alongside the highway.
Almost identical to a facility on Interstate
80 at Princeton, Illinois. So Pioneer
has a presence for sunflower and maize
or corn here in Pakistan. It appears that
farming practices are quite good. They
use flooding irrigation to produce cotton
and corn - a similar practice to Arizona.
And in fact, when you think about how
to describe this location in the world,
I think the Southwest of the US, and particularly
Arizona is a good comparison. The weather
here is similar to the month of July in
Arizona when it can be quite warm - in
the mid to upper 90's. Haven't seen a
cloud in the sky now for several days
through Pakistan and India. Very hot this
time of the year. You can actually sweat
standing in the shade.
The driving now is changing
from short distances and congested roads
to long distances and pretty good stretches
of tarmac and highway, occupied mainly
by transport trucks. Our staged length
tomorrow of travel is one of the longest
that we've experienced thus far on the
journey, more than 600 kilometers. Starting
at 7 o'clock in the morning it promises
to be a long day. We'll be moving from
Multan to another regional Pakistani city
of Quetta. You can follow that on the
map. I mentioned in yesterday's update
that we're halfway from Peking to Paris,
that's by the calendar. We're not quite
halfway in terms of mileage, 9,000 in
kilometers, a little more than 5,000 miles
remaining on our journey.
Some background about Pakistan.
The population here is up in the air.
No one is quite certain exactly what it
is. There's a lot of domestic turmoil
in the domestic politics of Pakistan and
they can't even agree on how to conduct
the census and what the actual census
is. We've had the opportunity to talk
to some international business people,
as well as some investment analysts who
have kind of given us the scoop on Pakistan.
It appears that the country is facing
an eminent devaluation based on the excessive
amount of leverage and loans that it has
received from the IMS and the world bank.
It also appears that only 1% of the population
here currently pays taxes. There are about
two and a half million telephone users
in Pakistan and they're hoping to ask
the telephone users to join the tax role.
They're trying to raise the public revenues
by adding and enforcing tax policy. Pakistan
has had a real roller coaster economic
history. 20 years ago the country nationalized
all of the industries and since then,
things have not gone too well. They've
tried to privatize over the last five
years about 400 industries and after privatizing
some industries, particularly the electric
industry, some of the businesses started
to make a profit and the government has
hinted that it's going to take the industries
back. So the investment climate in Pakistan
is not very favorable at the moment. The
public appears to be suffering under these
conditions. The average income here is
about a dollar a day, on average about
$400 a year and we're told that the lifestyle
and the economic well being of the people
of the country of Pakistan is really quite
poor. The hospitality couldn't be better.
People are very cordial and have been
very friendly. One has to kind of keep
on eye in all directions in Pakistan.
People here are described as hustlers
and you're not quite sure if they're really
sincere when they're as gracious as they
sometimes appear to be. A lot of fine
craftsmanship here in terms of teakwood,
leather and cotton shirts are thought
to be good values in Pakistan. Other than
that, the local produce - grapes, peaches,
oranges - are really quite excellent.
Pakistan is one of those places that you
just wouldn't ordinarily find your way
to visit and now that we're here, it's
really quite interesting to get a feel
for this country. It's sort of surrounded
by some giants, being surrounded by India,
from whom it separated 50 years ago. Pakistan
is celebrating its 50th year of independence
from India and India is celebrating its
50th year of independence from Great Britain.
Pakistan is also surrounded on the North
by its neighbor, China and on the West,
it's neighbor Afghanistan and to the South
is Iran. So Pakistan is sandwiched in
quite a bit of turbulent domestic activity
all around it, and as we've mentioned
before, Pakistan is an Islamic country
with Islam being the prescribed national
religion.
Well there's some good news
about Packards as it relates to Pakistan.
The Packard was the favorite of the founding
father of Pakistan in the 40's. The 1954
Packard entered in the Peking to Paris
Motor Challenge is running well. And we
want to report to those who are following
the mechanical condition of the Packard
that it's doing just about as well as
we could expect to do with these good
highway surfaces. The engine is strong
and the car is beginning to do what it
was designed and intended to do.
I'm joined here tonight
by my co-driver, my co-adventurer and
by a fellow who, along with me has made
a commitment to complete this journey
and everyday it appears to us that we're
going to be able to accomplish this. Let
me ask Carl to join the update at this
time.
CS - This has been
a very interesting time in Pakistan. It's
a country that was not high on my list
for visiting, but one of the countries
that I think I'd like to come back and
spend more time in. All along the trip
we've had crowds of people that have applauded
and smiled. We've had a lot of friendly
people in each country that we've gone
through. But it seems like here in Pakistan
the people have been more outgoing and
friendlier. English is the legal language
that is used here. Business is done in
English. As a consequence, more than two-thirds
of the advertising signs are in English,
so it seems a little more familiar, a
little more comfortable.
Yesterday, while we were
in Lahore getting the car's suspension
tightened up, I started a conversation
with a man who was having his car taken
care of and he asked many questions about
the Packard and our race trip. I answered
all of them and we enjoyed our company
together. About 40 minutes after he left,
he came back with his brother and started
all over again asking questions about
the car and the race and everything and
asking how I enjoyed Pakistan. And I said
I'm spending most of my time here at the
garage getting the car taken care of and
they insisted on taking me for a short
tour of the city in their car. I got to
see many of the 400 year old public buildings
of the city. They showed me shopping centers
that could have been in Stockholm or Stuttgart,
even Ohio with many western goods. Very
familiar western goods - Sunbeam electrical
appliances, Hush Puppies. They asked me
if I wanted a cold drink and I said that's
a good idea, so they took me to their
home. Well, I never expected to see the
inside of a Pakistani home and I certainly
didn't expect to be in one that had 14
bedrooms, 10 servants and a flock of peacocks
floating all over the place. It was quite
an experience. One of those eye openers
that you get when you travel. If you smile,
they'll smile back and start up a conversation
and it leads on to exploring what people
do and how they do it and how they live.
These were two brothers that had gone
to Sweden several years ago and worked
for a year in a chipboard factory. They
call them particleboards here, but in
Eureka, California, they're called chipboards.
They bought the plant, dismembered it
and brought it to Pakistan and put it
together and are now turning out 125 tons
of particleboard/chipboard every day.
Just very, very interesting to see the
kind of changes that are taking place
in a country where the notable things
to look at are 400 year old or 600 year
old temples. We had an interesting day
today coming across the country. Again,
smiles, waves, applause, people are extremely
happy and are enjoying seeing the cars.
Everyone's getting a little
tired so I'm gonna call this one down
and let Don finish off as we meander on
our way towards Iran and then Turkey.
DJ - As you can judge
from Carl's comments, we're continuing
to have good experiences. We're not plagued
at the moment with bad news and we're
really quite appreciative of that. I also
want to introduce to our family and friends
- Carl and Dons, as well as to the family
and friends of many of the participants
in the Motor Challenge - one of the teams
from the United States is lead by Ted
Thomas from Birmingham, Alabama. This
team has two sparkling and very well prepared
1950 Ford Coupes in this competition and
they're entered in the Vintageants, or
the antique classification of cars, 1950
or prior, in terms of age and they're
doing very, very well leading in the timing
competition of the Rally. We're joined
here by Ted Thomas and we'd like to introduce
him to our family and friends and ask
him to spend a few minutes with you describing
his experience and that of his fellow
team members. Ted, welcome to our network
of family and friends.
Ted - Thank you for
having me. It's been a long three weeks
for us. We started originally in Beijing,
through Mongolia, into Tibet and then
into Nepal. And probably the toughest
part of the whole journey so far has been
when we got close to the Nepal border
coming out of Tibet. There was a section
of road there about 7 kilometers long
which they call nomads land between the
two borders. You can't really call it
a road because a road didn't exist. It
was a series of ruts, rocks, springs,
flowing rivers, waterfalls - a very, very
difficult area. It took its toll very
heavily on most of the cars, whether they
actually broke there or just were damaged
to the point they had to be repaired in
the next couple of days. There are two
countries that have been favorites of
ours, one is Tibet. It's probably one
of the prettiest countries we went through.
And as far as friendly, I would go along
with what Carl said. The people in Pakistan,
from the time we crossed the Indian border
into Pakistan have been very, very hospitable.
As a matter of fact instead of taking
us an hour and a half to get into and
out of India, when we got to Pakistan
it took about 5 minutes. When we got across
the border they were waiting there for
us with cold drinks and a nice escort
into town. Very hospitable in the hotel
and just really couldn't do enough for
us. I've got to again, go with what Carl
said, this could be a country that you
actually look forward to coming back to
and being able to spend some time and
really see it. Tomorrow we've got a real
long day, it's over 600 kilometers and
the day after that it's 700 kilometers.
We'll be going into Iran fairly quickly
now. Actually I wasn't looking forward
to going into Iran, but now I think I
am. We've met a lot of the Iranians here.
There's six of them actually participating
in the race. The Iranian government has
advised us that they are going to pay
for all of our fuel, they're going to
put extra support trucks with mechanics
to help us with maintenance on the cars.
So I think it will be a pleasant experience
and not one that I originally thought
was going to be very difficult. I guess
that's it for right now. The last thing
I would like to say is that I think the
organizers are somewhat surprised with
the fact that we still have 84 cars running.
I think they thought we would probably
be half of that number. I think it just
shows the determination of all of the
competitors that they really do want to
finish this thing and get to Paris. Thank
you.
DJ - Ted, why don't
you introduce some of the members of your
team because some of them and their family
members have used the Internet E-Mail
and Guest Book services to communicate
and we'd sure, for the record, would like
to know more about your team.
Ted - The co-driver
with me is a gentleman named Vic Zannis.
Vic lives in Birmingham with his wife
Sara and two boys and one girl. One is
at the University of Alabama now, the
other two are home studied and doing very,
very well. The other car's driver is John
Jung. John is from Dallas, Texas. He is
retired. His co-driver is Andy Vann from
Trustville, Alabama. Andy is married to
Marianne Vann. Marianne was a big supporter
of our team. She helped out a lot with
the computer services and putting all
the lists together of where things where,
what we needed and things like that. It's
been a pretty good team so far. We've
had our moments, but we're all running
as a team and are looking forward to getting
to Paris as a team. Thank you. Don And
we want to report to Marianne that we're
all keeping our eye on Andy and that he's
doing actually I think very well right
now. He had a couple of days where he
had a bout of some illness and he's worked
his way through that and we had dinner
tonight and he was in very good spirits
and good health. We assure Marianne that
Andy is doing just fine.
To finish up, our location
is in central Pakistan. We're in the city
of Multan, a city of 800,000 people. The
local information suggests and claims
that this is a city of 200,000 years of
age and it's origin dates back to the
era of Persia. Quite a significant claim
in that one of the oldest cities in the
world is thought to be Jericho and as
you travel around the world, you discover
certain facts that somehow don't make
it into the general records. Whether that
claim is accurate we'll leave to those
who want to research that and check it
out. The city of Multan is said to be
founded by an Islamic religious leader
similar to Moses in the Christian tradition
and they claim that the age of this locale
as a place of human existence is 200,000
years. We can tell you one thing, it is
hot, hot, hot. The wind blows hot and
the sun shines hot and everyone is consuming
vast amounts of fluids in order to avoid
dehydration.
One of the cars, an English
Railton had an axle fail today and to
illustrate how resourceful people are,
they were able, using a spare axle, to
make the repairs on that car. Well most
of the cars are settling into the pace
and the drivers seem to be enduring the
ever changing conditions and everyone
is pretty well set on doing what it takes
to get to Paris by October 18th. The '54
Packard is running well. Carl and Don
are trying to get enough rest, being careful
about intake of foods and liquids to stay
healthy and fulfill our dream and our
goal of getting to Paris. That completes
the update for this, the 23rd day. Thanks
for coming along and we'll sign off from
Pakistan.