Saturday, September
27, 1997
DJ - Time for another update. We've
arrived in Pakistan, another country on
our journey around the world. Don here
and I have a special guest with me on
this update. The guest is Carl. You all
are asking me, "How's Carl?, Where's
Carl?, What's Carl doing?" Carl is
here on this report to give his account
of his whereabouts and his insights on
this marvelous adventure.
Let me describe for you
what today was like, the 26th of September.
We traveled from Delhi, the capital of
the second most populous country in the
world, India, northwest across India and
through 4 of the 21 states of India and
arrived at the border with Pakistan. We
drove from 4:30 AM leaving the capital
city of Delhi which is very congested
and a very difficult place to drive around
in and arrived at the border at 1:30 in
the afternoon. That was done in order
that the cars could get processed through
the customs border crossing by 4:30 in
the afternoon, because after 4:30 the
border is sealed closed. The drive today
was about 350 miles, the distance approximately
of driving from St. Louis to Chicago.
We drove the 1954 Packard
very hard today, we actually had it up
to 70 miles an hour for the first time
that I can recall in several weeks. We've
commented that this event is not about
speed, but there are stages of the trip
where speed is possible and today was
the first time in several weeks that we've
been able to attain American lifestyle
driving conditions. Although when you
drive in India it's not a normal drive.
It's very exciting. I can't think of any
amusement ride at the county fair, the
state fair or a rural fair that would
match driving in India. I can't think
of any video game that creates a virtual
reality experience that would match the
actual thrill of going down an Indian
highway. We want to report that as much
as we've been concerned about the 1954
Packard, that given today's hard drive,
mechanically, it is really quite sound
and a pleasure to drive.
We estimate that we're about
one half of the way of our journey from
Peking to Paris by virtue of being here
in Pakistan at this time. The city that
we're in is Lahore. It's one of three
major cities in the country of Pakistan.
There's Ialamabad, is the capital city.
Karachi is a port city and Lahore is a
major city on the border with India. The
population here is 2 million people in
this city and it is beset with the stress
of cultural and population pressures.
They say that a major crime is committed
here every 10 minutes and that the population
is out of control. It's hard to understand
what's going on in Pakistan. It's really
quite complex, so I think we'll reserve
comment on that until we learn more. We'll
be in Pakistan over the course of the
next 4 days. That's an overview of where
we are at this moment. Let me hand the
communications hand set to my co-driver
and - I'm trying to think of all of the
kind of adjectives that you would say
about a person after you have spent 4
weeks with them sealed up in a car, we
sure have gotten very close, I'll say
that much for sure. Here's Carl.
CS - I have a number
of comments to make and we'll start with
what today was like from Delhi. Don drove
out and we played the hare and the tortoise
game for some time with the car. There
are a number of competitors, especially
from Great Britain, who have made discouraging
remarks about our "Elvis Presley"
car, because the 1954 Packard is a very
large 1950's style American car. Many
comments are made about it being too big
and too heavy and it would never make
it across. Well, here we are - we're in
Pakistan and a number of comments were
made, particularly from the Germans who
were following us through the mountains,
that they appreciated it being in front
because we were grading the road, they
call it the road grader, the snow plow.
We moved all of the rocks with the bottom
of the car so that they could come by
on a little smoother road. The car has
worked very well, and once again shows
Packard's engineering was for durability.
Many of the passes and roads that we came
over from China, Tibet and Nepal had been
badly damaged by monsoon rains, with landslides
and washouts, so forth, but the Packard
just pulled itself right across, through
the ruts without problems of any major
size. Today we were able to show the competition
what the Packard was really built for.
We were going down modern highways that
were smooth without washouts, without
rocks and moved our place substantially
forward from being the last car out of
Delhi to coming in in the first one-third
of the competitors, with Don driving.
Now I have to tell you about Don's driving
because we've talked about the hare and
tortoise. Sometimes he's the tortoise,
but today he was a jackrabbit. The car's
movement was unbelievable. Now you've
got to picture this road. A very modern
road, blacktop, with a mix of cows and
goats, hundreds, hundreds and hundreds
of bicycles, putt-putts, motor scooters,
trucks, buses, cars and people. There
was not one mile where there weren't people
walking on the side of the road. Children
tending goats, people moving cows back
and forth. In any given mile, the brakes
had to be applied, probably six or seven
times because somebody would move out
front, such as farm tractors moving out
onto the highway without even stopping
or slowing down. Don's driving ability
was something to see. I was even going
to buy him a drink tonight to celebrate
the fact that we got here. But we are
in Pakistan and there is no alcohol, so
we had fruit juice - a lime mixture that
was very good. Traffic was something that
you could only have nightmares about.
We have come this far. The Packard is
moving. We've had a few little problems
with it and one of our newfound friends,
Andy Vann from Birmingham, has been very
helpful. I mention his name particularly
because it's one of those connecting the
dots experiences that Don always talks
about. Andy has a home down on the Alabama
Riviera near Pensacola, Florida where
I spend a lot of time. Amongst the recollections
that we were talking about - people we
knew - he and his wife, Mary Ann have
a favorite dining place called the Wolf
Bay Lodge in south Alabama, which has
been one of my favorite dining places
for many years and our company Christmas
party scene for four or five times. So
it's part of connecting the dots, as Don
talked about. I come halfway around the
world to China, Tibet and meet a man that
was probably in the restaurant some night
the same time I was. We'll probably have
our Christmas party there and invite Andy
and his wife down for that.
We've had a great time meeting
different people and tomorrow here in
Pakistan they're going to have a tour
for us to see a number of the sights and
an invitation from the Governor of Punjab
for high tea. Now I'm not sure whether
high tea is quite the thing that I want
to go to, but then Don always has high
tea every time he drinks tea. Don, of
course, is one of the objects of great
appreciation by most of the people here
because he towers over them. I remember
yesterday morning when we were still in
India, he was taking his camera and taking
pictures of the people and one particularly
elderly gentleman who was about 4'3"
stood alongside of him and Don picked
him up and carried him around and the
people applauded and laughed. Don has
made a lot of friends, not only for himself,
but for America. The sights, the sounds,
the smells and the scenes of India are
something that I'll never forget. Another
one of those things that you read about
all your life, but to experience some
of the wonders of the world, from Tiananmen
Square and the Great Wall, across the
Gobi Desert, Mt. Everest, Tibet, Lhasa,
Nepal, India with the elephants, now Pakistan
is really quite amazing. Speaking of the
elephants. Beside seeing elephants on
the road, one of the things that really,
really surprised me was the large number
of monkeys. It's like jackrabbits on South
Dakota. They are literally are all over
the place as we drove through the forest.
My good friend Larry Silveride would like
to know that they have tree farms in India
and they're doing quite a bit of forest
management in Nepal and India. The people
have been extremely friendly from Nepal
and in India, they just can't seem to
do enough to make you feel welcome. Here
in Pakistan we had a slight delay crossing
the border. Don made a friend with the
captain of the customs police who brought
us ice cold cups of cola. It's just part
of this goodwill trip that comes with
the race. People love the cars, they love
talking to us, we've made some nice friends,
some good friends, maybe some people we'll
know the rest of our lives. I've had a
great time. I think Don has had a great
time. The experience has been unbelievable.
It may sound like it's starting to wind
down now, but it's not - the best is yet
to come. When we finish Pakistan, we'll
go through Iran, Turkey and then into
Europe, where I'm a little more familiar
with the road and I think we'll have a
good time. I especially want Ed Omara
to know that I got the Carnet today and
I got the copy of my prescription, so
that's all settled and handled. We'll
be all ready, hopefully the parts that
Alan knows about will be sent to Istanbul
and we'll be on our way again.
The Packard proved once
more that strength can be an advantage.
The heavy car created some problems in
the sand, for example and out of the canning
fields, where it sunk in, but it was able
to pull itself out, didn't have to have
to pull anywhere, and it keeps on moving.
That's the thing that I feel so good about
with the car, it just keeps on moving.
Sometime we're the last ones in, but now
with the new road, better roads and the
desert country coming up, we think the
Packard will show the rest of the cars
the taillights. Well I think I've talked
long enough. I'll sign over to Don for
the sign off.
DJ - As Carl's family
and friends can probably judge, Carl's
in good form - good health and good spirits.
We'll we're often asked,
"What do you do when you're together
in the car for so much time?" Let
me give you an example of what we do.
Today, as we're driving across India,
Carl asked one of his many trivia questions.
And the question for today was, "Who
was the bodyguard for Daddy Warbucks in
Little Orphan Annie?" The answer
is, it was an Indian gentleman by the
name of Punjab. That question came up
because we were driving across the state
of Punjab and it was magical to look out
the window of the car and to see the headdress
of all the men, to see the flowing beards
and the colorful dress and to realize
that we were in this mystical and truly
foreign place called Punjab, India, which
also happens to be the center of the textile
trade in India. We couldn't help but notice
a lot of billboard signs for both American
and Italian fashion clothing, particularly
jeans, all of which are manufactured right
here in northern India. And just like
the Oshkosh B'gosh outlet store in Oshkosh,
Wisconsin and the outlet center in Kenosha
and other places, here they advertise
their local goods, which we know by the
brand names that are in our stores, but
they're actually made right here in Punjab,
India.
Well our update report over
the last 24 hours was made by a satellite
telephone transmission from Delhi. The
hotel telephone exchange failed during
the evening and there were a number of
power outages at the hotel in Delhi, so
we had to resort to the satellite telephone
and we understand that there were some
pauses and interruptions during the course
of our last update. That's to be expected
when you're halfway around the world.
To illustrate to you how demanding the
journey is, on the journals on the Internet
of our accounts, you'll see some photographs
and amongst the photographs you'll see
the three support vehicles that are used
by the marshals of the rally, there are
about 50 personnel involved. One of the
engines of a support vehicle blew up today
and the support vehicle had to be towed
by another support vehicle. And it's a
brand new 1997 vehicle. So that's an indication
on how demanding this event is, both on
the cars and the people. Many of the people
are beginning to sort of "hit the
wall" and our stop here in Pakistan
includes a 24 hour rest period, which
people are beginning to need in order
to get their equipment in order and to
catch up on laundry and family communications,
as well. Well, we're in Pakistan and it's
a puzzling place because the Islamic religion
is the state religion of Pakistan. It's
one of the original countries of the world
to adopt a religion as a public policy,
but it's also a country in great turmoil,
domestic political turmoil and in actual
wars with it's neighbors. Pakistan borders
Afghanistan and it borders India with
the state of Kashmir and there is, every
single day, today included, active warfare
about 300 miles north of where we are
at this moment on the frontier with India
and Pakistan. So we didn't know what to
expect in terms of conflictive tension
in the process of entering Pakistan. We
do want to report that that went smoothly
and that entering Pakistan is like stepping
back in time. There were donkey carts,
bazaars and people dressed in costume
and clothing that's customary for this
region. All of the men with white flowing
gowns and turbans. All of the women with
colorful gowns and headdress. One can't
help but think that you stepped back maybe
a couple of hundred years when you enter
Pakistan. But, the hospitality is very
cordial and we're going to be here for
four days so we'll certainly find out
more in the course of the days ahead and
obviously, we're going to share it with
you because we know that you're enjoying
this journey right along with us. So we'll
conclude at this point with this update
and say so long until the next time and
good-bye from Pakistan.