Friday, September 26,
1997
DJ - Hello and welcome to the update
with Carl and Don coming to you at this
time from Delhi or New Delhi, India. As
you travel, we often ask each other, "How's
the weather?" The weather here deserves
a comment. It's hot, it's humid, it's
windy, there's not a cloud in the sky.
Delhi is a city that is
incredible. I want to be careful with
my adjectives and be kind as a brief visitor.
By incredible I mean it is a real mixture
of madness and mayhem. When you ask what
the population of Delhi is, the response
that you get is too many, because the
population here is thought to be between
9 and 10 million people, all thrown into
an urban environment that had not planned
for that many people. In our brief time
here, you couldn't help but notice that
people are attempting to live underneath
the highway overpasses and some of the
railroad overpasses in very pathetic living
conditions right on the public streets
and highways. Driving in India I would
describe as sort of a human pinball machine
game. It makes the machine pinball kind
of dull. It also makes driving in places
that have repute for driving conditions,
like Rome, Italy or Mexico City, Mexico,
seem rather mild. I say that because if
you ask what are the rules of the road
in India, I think the answer is there
aren't any. You make them up as you go.
The combination of the vehicles and modes
of transportation that are all on the
surface of the public highway can range
from ox carts to tractors pulling produce
and people to highway transport trucks,
buses, along with people walking in either
direction on the side of the road and
then you throw in some sacred holy cows
who take it upon themselves to meander
into the highway at any time and you have
quite a combination. One of the rules
of driving in India is to use your horn
liberally. On the back of every transport
truck is an ad mentioning, "Please
use your horn." This is quite in
contrast with a place like Japan where
in many of the urban environments, such
as Tokyo, it's against the law to even
use your horn. Well here in India, a horn
is an essential part of the driving technique.
It's really quite extraordinary and if
you like challenges, as far as driving
is concerned, it can be challenging. We've
attempted also to do it at night, which
is like playing the pinball game blindfolded.
I think for most people it would be pretty
nerve racking and stressful and indeed
it is for us, but you somehow choreograph
your way through all of this mayhem and
you get to where you're going.
We crossed a major river
today, it was the Ganges River. We've
added that to our water crossings since
we began our journey in Times Square,
New York. We've crossed the Hudson River.
We've crossed the Guyahoga River in Cleveland.
We mentioned that in one of our reports
that we survived that experience. We crossed
the Mississippi, the mighty Missouri,
the Plattes, the Sacramento and of course,
the extraordinary Yellow River in China.
And so today we crossed the Ganges River
on our travel into the city of Delhi,
also called New Delhi, it's the same place.
The Ganges River has been added to our
landmarks that we've traversed as we've
traveled around the world thus far by
automobile. Couldn't help but notice that
there is a sign at the entrance to the
bridge of the Ganges River that says,
"No Photography Permitted."
I thought to myself that in this age of
satellite photography, how peculiar it
was to see a sign like that. Can't image
if that was a religious region or a strategic
reason, but nonetheless, thought it kind
of curious to see a sign such as that
in 1997.
A word about India to give
you and me some perspective. The history
of New Delhi is that anything that the
British started in the city of Delhi is
referred to as New Delhi and the old Delhi
part of the Ranjit, the Maharaja who ruled
India up to the arrival of the east Indian
trading company from the UK in the 1800's.
It's referred to as Delhi. You might enjoy
reading this history of New Delhi, or
is it Delhi? The answer is either answer
is correct. The third answer in modern
times is New Delhi.
As we say the population
here is an incredible 9-10 million people
and we can tell, being here only a short
time, that the infrastructure of the city
is really quite stretched. Many housing
buildings stand in partial completion.
A lot of attempts to provide some modern
housing and there is also some very, very,
distressed and very inferior housing throughout
this major city which is the capital city
of the nation of India. A nation that's
celebrating it's 50th year of independence
at the present time.
Moving along in our report,
a couple of comments about the '54 Packard.
We are currently operating with two wheel
bolts missing from the front wheels of
the car. One of the bolts came loose after
we had a tire serviced in Katmandu and
we found ourselves the day before yesterday
going down the highway with the wheel
wobbling. We stopped to discover that
a bolt was missing and that the rim had
been damaged in the short time we had
operated without the missing bolt. So
we removed a bolt from one side, made
an adjustment, in fact changed the wheel
with the spare and we're currently operating
with four bolts on each front wheel instead
of five. And the vibration of traveling
through rivers and jungles and over mountains
have caused the windows to become inoperative,
we think because of vibration. We're not
worried about that because fortunately
we're going into desert and it shouldn't
be a problem.
Many questions are asked
on the E-mails from the Guest Book about
the car, what we do in our spare time
and how we handle food and bathroom needs
and do we operate with the top down on
the convertible. Dave Hill of Los Altos,
California asked about that. Gary Nadolsky
of Wisconsin has asked about the logistical
arrangements. We want to acknowledge receipt
of those questions and say that over the
course of the next two or three days,
we'll comment in response to those questions
and tell you about some of our daily operations.
I want to acknowledge also other E-Mails
just briefly. My daughter Mary Jones in
South Bend, Indiana was kind enough to
think about me on this special day and
I want her to know I did have some apple
pie and that I do understand that she
could not surprise me by coming to India,
but, nonetheless, through her messages
and by means of telecommunications we
can still be in contact. So, Mary, thanks
so much for your messages and your good
wishes and I really enjoyed hearing from
you here in India. To Bianca in Madrid,
Felix's friend, who is not quite sure
that her messages are getting through
to Mick the Flick and Felix, both are
operating a Mercedes automobile, we want
Bianca in Madrid to know that her messages
are being received and that Felix has
copies of her E-Mail comments, and so
does the rest of the world, but it's a
small world and it really doesn't matter
because we're all amongst friends and
family. To students at Poplar Bridge School
in Minnesota, we want you to know we've
gotten you're greeting and we're going
to be getting back to you with further
comments from our journey. To the senior
officer of General Motors Buick Division
in Michigan, we want him to know we appreciate
receiving his E-Mail and knowing that
he's following our journey.
The number of cars have
officially decreased we're told by the
amount of 75 at the present time. 94 began
the trip in Peking. It's hard everyday
for us to complete our travel and to keep
up with all the news, but a couple of
things that have occurred that we do know
about. One is that Herbert and Elfi Handlbauer's
car, a 328 BMW, had a broken part and
fell behind by as much as a day and a
half. We understand that the Handlbauers,
who are from Austria, were able to have
a part fabricated and have succeeded in
getting back with the agenda and the itinerary.
A mishap within the last 24 hours, last
night our time, when a Rover automobile
operated by two participants from the
UK drove off the road and over a cliff.
For more facts about what happened, we
would direct you to the Discovery Channel's
Peking to Paris news and information service
prepared by Mike, Drew and Chris of the
Discovery Team who are on the journey
and they can fill you in on the details
(discovery.com). The drivers were not
seriously injured, although, I understand,
they were obviously shaken by the experience.
Here in India it seems like
there are people on every square foot
of the land as you move around in this
country of 800 plus million people. We'll
ask our chief research librarian, Mom
Jones, to look at the square mile density
for India, on a population basis and compare
that to some earlier figures we gave you
for China and the United States, so that
we can get an understanding of just how
intense the population situation is here
in India. We want to report to you that
when we entered the country, we gained
back 15 minutes of time so our time difference
is now 11 hours and 30 minutes from the
United States. When we began in China,
the time difference was 13 hours and for
some reason we gained 15 minutes between
Nepal and India. I myself would like to
know the history as to why that is. If
someone would care to look into it for
us and pass it along in an E-Mail, we
would certainly enjoy knowing why there
is that peculiar time zone situation in
this part of the world involving 15 minutes
for India and 15 minutes for Nepal.
We've quickly scanned the
local newspaper and would share with you
some highlights to give you a feel for
what's important in this part of the world
contrasted to where you are and where
you live. Here in New Delhi they have
requested 5,000 new police officers and
as many as 17 new police stations. They
say that they have had 124,000 persons
arrested in 1996 and that has skyrocketed
from 68,000 persons in 1984. So they're
asking for funding and authority to hire
5,000 new police officers in the city
of Delhi and to open 17 police stations
in addition to the present 107 police
stations that are currently in this major
capital city.
There's kind of fascinating
situation involving cable television and
satellite television programming. An arrest
warrant or summons has been issued for
Rupert Merdoch here in New Delhi. It has
to do with obscene and vulgar films being
shown on a satellite television channel.
A 32 page complaint has been filed in
the local court here along with copies
of actual movies such as Danger of the
Damned, Stripped to Kill and The Jigsaw
Murders have all been submitted to the
court and an arrest warrant has been issued
for Rupert Merdoch to come to India and
to defend the use of that material on
cable television.
The Prime Minister of India
made a presentation to the United Nations.
And in his presentation he said something
that we probably would not think of in
the United States and that is, he made
the observation that India is the largest
democracy in the world and that New Delhi
is ready to take responsibility for permanent
membership to the United Nations Security
Council as the largest democracy in the
world. They should be entitled to that
position. Those comments made Thursday
by the Prime Minister of India to the
United Nations.
On the business front, an
Indian, age 34, who also is an American,
has invented an electronic postage stamp.
He has entered into an arrangement with
the United States postal service to allow
users to print postage directly on envelopes
or labels while printing addresses. When
postage runs out, you can use a PIN number
to access an account with the United States
postal service and secure what's called
an E Stamp. A company that the Indians
have started in the United States has
secured funding from Microsoft and AT&T
as part of a joint venture. So people
from outside the United States are inventing
the concept of E Stamp, as it's called.
It's estimated that 40% of the world's
mail originates in the United States.
Lastly, it's hard to tell
whether attention is being given in the
United States to this piece of news from
China, but in China, public officials
there and the foreign minister said that
they are seeking a strategic alliance
with the United States similar to that
that the US has made with Russia and France.
The Foreign Minister of China, whose comments
are headline news in this part of the
world, made these comments 30 days in
advance of a visit to the United States
by the president of China and those remarks
are thought to be of very major political
significance in this part of the world.
We have received some mechanical
advice from Andy Vann who is from what
he calls the Red Neck Riviera. We would
probably refer to that as Alabama. Andy,
in the small world department, tells us
that he is from the town of Trustville,
Alabama where they have a police dispatcher
whose name is Fond du Lac Page. Apparently,
Mr. Page was born in the city of Fond
du Lac, near and dear to many our family
and friends, and his first name is Fond
du Lac. I've never encountered a person
with a first name like that. He's the
police dispatcher for the city of Trustville,
Alabama. These are things that you learn
about as you travel and meet peope around
the world.
We want you to know that
we've arrived in Delhi. It's a very hot,
humid, dusty, windy and chaotic city.
I like to describe the situation here
as unorganized chaos in contrast to organized
and disciplined chaos in China. When you
think about the fact that the combination
of the population of China and India is
2 billion people and there are 5 billion
people in the world, and what a tremendous
amount of resource that is, and the human
public policy and management issues that
that represents it's very extraordinary.
We are being very well received
in India. People have an expression here
of saying to all the participants, may
luck be with you. Tomorrow promises to
be a challenging and hard day and that
is because it begins at 4 AM. We've been
advised that we must be on the road at
4 AM because we have to arrive during
daylight hours in plenty of time to be
processed across the one and only former
border that exists between India and Pakistan,
who are currently in a state of war involving
the Kashmir region. Consequently all of
the automobiles in the rally are being
asked to depart at 4 AM tomorrow in order
to cover the 400 kilometer journey over
to Pakistan and the Indian/Pakistan border.
We hope to pass through the cities of
Amritsar, where the Queen of England is
expected to visit in October. Then to
move onto the nearby city of Lahore, a
major regional city in Pakistan where
we'll be overnighting and having a much
needed day off.
The 1954 Packard continues
to roll on. It seems to be indestructible.
Although it is battered and bruised quite
a bit as are most of the cars at this
point. We've had comments from the boys
of the Aston Martin from UK, Tony and
Simon, two London businessmen, that they
just can't believe that the '54 red Packard
is still going on and on and they chuckle
and laugh when they see the car at the
end of everyday continuing to carry one
while they're struggling to keep their
very fine and well tuned Aston Martin,
sort of a James Bond kind of automobile,
going on these very, very difficult conditions.
We're back on asphalt roads and that makes
things just so much easier for both machines
and people than some of the off road traveling
that we've been doing over the last few
weeks.
That's today's update. Again,
a lot of information to share with you.
I thought all of you would find it very
fascinating and interesting to share this
experience and I want you to know that
it isn't because I enjoy talking so much
that I'm passing on this information,
it's because I know it's important and
it's being relied on, not only the family
and friends of Carl and Don, but now the
many family and friends of participants
in this extraordinary journey. So we'll
stop at this point and tell you that our
next update will come to you from Pakistan.
In the next 24 hours we'll be leaving
Delhi, the capital of India and going
to Pakistan. And the journey rolls on
with our destination of Paris in October
as our objective. Thanks for joining the
update and stay with us on this wonderful
trip. We're hanging in here. We're committed
to staying through to the end and with
the grace of God, we'll all be healthy
and well and be able to see our way through
this experience. So long until the next
time and good-bye to you from India.