Saturday, September
20, 1997
DJ - The 15th day of our travel
from Peking to Paris has been completed
successfully and we reach you at this
moment from Katmandu, Nepal. We're very
pleased to be able to say that we're in
Katmandu and for the grace of God and
our own perseverance we're able to bring
you this report and update. We owe you
an account for the last 48 hours which
have been full of challenges and we've
dealt with those and we want to very quickly
report that both Carl and I are in good
health, good spirits and very relieved
to be in Katmandu.
I'll retrace for you what
brought us here in terms of events and
transportation. We were brought on the
back of a transport truck from the border
of Nepal and China, which is about a six
hour trek on single lane, mostly unpaved
roads. We reached the border at mid-day
after a suspenseful and I must say at
times frightening descent down a tremendous
mountain gorge to reach a very remote
and isolated border station between Nepal
and China. I think I can safely report
to you that there is no road that leads
to Lhasa, Tibet and China from this part
of the Himalayan Mountain range. I say
no roads because when you think of a road
you think of a maintained paved surface
or a decent road, but what actually exists
is a path not very well suited for passenger
cars. Friends who are from Arizona who
are familiar with the Apache trail, which
winds through the Superstition Mountains
to the east of Scottsdale and Phoenix
are aware of what a thrilling and at time,
frightening, drive that can be. That road
surface would be considered interstate
highway in this part of the world. Between
the last Chinese checkpoint and the Himalayas
and the first Nepalese checkpoint, there
is road system of about 8 kilometers which
is a piece of path that is maintained
by no one. Consequently, it is almost
really impractical for motorized vehicles,
except those suited for off road travel,
to traverse this highway. The '54 Packard
attempted to do it, but in the course
of doing it the undercarriage was damaged,
the clutch to the vehicle became tight
and generally, as Carl would say, the
'54 Packard has had more use and abuse
in the last two weeks than it has in the
previous 40 years of its life. We made
a decision when we reached the border
of Nepal and China that we were expecting
too much of the car to push on another
5 or 6 hours to get to Katmandu and we
did what is often done in necessity, we
secured a transport cargo truck. In quite
a remarkable scene in the border town
about 50 people got behind the 6,000 pound
Packard and pushed it up a pair of planks
onto this transport truck. At times, it
seem to me while I was driving the vehicle
onto the truck that the people were actually
lifting the car off the ground to get
it in.
Well we reached Katmandu
in the early morning hours. We actually
have to explain to you the time situation
in this part of the world. There is a
2 hour and 15 minute time change when
you go from China to Nepal. I know absolutely
nothing as to the history or the reason
why the 15 minutes is in there and I'm
told another 15 minutes is tacked on when
we move to India. So, by physical time
it was about 2 AM Peking time when we
arrived in Katmandu and the clock time
was 12:15 AM.
It was about a 15 hour day
for us as we made the journey from about
25 miles inside China to the border and
then 100 kilometers from the border to
Katmandu. In this part of the world it
seems that if you want to travel 100 kilometers
you almost need to plan a day to accomplish
something like that which I think is about
60 miles. Last night we had endured camping
out. Our last report came to you in the
shadows of Mt. Everest. The second night
we camped at a vacated Chinese Hotel which
was located in a magnificent gorge. The
hotel was designed to be a resort complex,
but is so inaccessible in this part of
the world that it became abandoned. So
our whole entourage tented up there as
a staging point to begin down this mountain,
this gorge, where this highway just sort
of hung on the edge of the mountain. Last
night we were at 11,000 feet elevation.
Tonight were at about 4,000 feet here
in Katmandu. There were a few moments
on the drive down the gorge for everyone
when it was clearly quite tense. In this
part of the world landslides are about
as common is icy, snowy highways in February
in Wisconsin. What you do with landslides
is just shovel away enough room for a
vehicle to come down the path, or roadway
and to hope that the landslide will not
become reactivated. But there were moments
as I was driving that Carl informed me
that there was anywhere from 6-12 inches
on the passenger side of the car to the
edge of the surface and beyond the edge
was a several thousand foot decline or
drop-off from the roadway. Most cars made
the journey. We were the second to last
car into Katmandu. A number of cars had
mechanical failure as a result of the
surface conditions on the pass. I really
hesitate to call it a road and I would
have to inform you that I would not recommend
your driving from remote Tibet/China into
Nepal. It was really quite a frightening
experience. But, as we said, the grace
of God made it possibly for us to make
it through it and we're doing just fine.
The 24 hours prior to that
we drove through a very remote and arid
part of Tibet. There's not a stick of
wood to be found in several hundred miles.
It's a very arid and dry place and all
of our driving the last three days has
been in off road kind of conditions -
a lot of dust, a lot of gravel, a lot
of wash outs along the rivers, streams,
landslides - all sorts of obstacles that
really take their toll of both the machines
and the people. The cars were full of
dust, road dust coming in underneath the
panels of the car at times made it appear
that the car was on fire and all of the
interior of the car was loaded with dust
and we haven't been able to shower for
two days so it's a delight, as I say,
to be in Katmandu for that reason alone.
We also derelict in not getting our update
to you in the last 24 hours. Our batteries
ran down in our satellite mobile telephone
and we were at this vacated Chinese hotel
where they had no electricity and no running
water and it was impossible for us to
place our remote satellite report update.
We realize that glitch might have caused
some anxiety, but we want to assure everyone
that we're in Katmandu and we're going
to be collecting ourselves here.
The facility that we're
in is comparable to the very nice facility
at the American Club or Pebble Beach in
California and it is quite a contrast
to our experiences the last 48 hours without
a chance to sleep and to operate in somewhat
of a normal semblance.
Katmandu is a city of 13
million people and the word Katmandu is
actually taken from the Nepalese language
and it means "Wooden Temple".
As we've spent the better part of this
day here, we first observed there were
just children everywhere. The children
range in age from 2 to 10. They're just
remarkably visible, very active. You're
quick to notice that the living standard
here is quite subpar from what the North
American or European experience is. We
see that many homes are only about half
the size of an American automobile garage
and that in most homes, as we drove into
the city tonight, used candle power to
light the dwelling. So we're definitely
in a faraway, foreign, alien place.
The number of automobiles
in the challenge has diminished to 84
at the present and it's likely that today's
arduous trip took its toll. Although here
in Katmandu, it's sort of a staging place
for the next one third of the event, which
will take us up to Istanbul. We generally
thought that Katmandu would be the first
one third of the challenge and Istanbul
would be second and Paris would be the
third.
We're pleased to be down
in lower elevations. We've been living
for several days at very high elevations
and it does take its toll on you in terms
of how you feel and what you're sensations
are. There's a remarkable contrast between
the other side of the Himalayas, the Chinese
side, where it is very arid and very dry
versus the Nepal side which is very green
and lush. Bamboo trees and rice fields
cut into the side of the mountain where
there is very lush and sort of tropical
growth here in Nepal. The Himalayas at
this time of year are sort of like the
Rocky Mountains, they're very dry or very
lush with a lot of growth depending on
which side you're on. It's not at all
like the Winter situation that you would
normally associate with the Himalayas
and with the higher altitudes.
There have been a couple
of misfortunes on the journey we should
share those with you so you hear them
from us and not someone else. One of the
cars from Germany was traveling across
China and a truck had stopped alongside
the road, which is a common ocurrence.
The roads here are used throughout the
country as sort of a town square. The
people walk, bicycle, visit and the movement
of heavy trucks and buses and very frequently
cars, all kind of share the pavement.
Well, in any event, a truck driver stepped
around his truck and onto the highway
pavement and just at that moment the car
driven by one of the German drivers came
in contact with the truck driver. The
support personnel for the rally, including
a doctor and a paramedic were able to
take care of the truck driver and take
him to a nearby medical facility. We have
not had an update as to his condition.
The German team was held by the Chinese
police and it took them the better part
of the entire day to sort out the details
and for them to be held not accountable.
Also, Carl had a set back when his hand
carry bag was apparently removed in the
early morning hours in one of our camping
experiences by some neighboring nomadic
Chinese sheep herders who were milling
about the campground. Carl's handbag contained
the Carnet and the right to transfer the
car across different borders and so we're
hoping that Ed of Carl's staff will fax
on copies to us in Katmandu of the Carnet
so that we will not have any hold ups
at future border crossings.
Everyday all of the participants
are sort of attentive as to what has happened
to who and its at the end of the day that
you find out what has occurred along the
course of the event. A lot of camaraderie,
a lot of fellowship amongst the 22 nationalities
that make up the Peking to Paris Rally.
We made our way to Nepal. Lush, tropical
Nepal has sort of an atmosphere of India
to it in terms of the genealogy of the
people and their way of life. We're here
for a couple of days so we'll be learning
a whole lot more. The people are very
gracious and hospitable. A lot of public
signs and banners across the public highways
welcoming the Peking to Paris rally to
Nepal today. Over the next few days in
our update report, we're going to give
you some reflections on China. Some things
we didn't think were appropriate to talk
about when we were in China. So we would
encourage you in the next 48 hours to
catch our next two updates and we'll make
certain to tell you about the 5,000 public
safety officers who made sure we didn't
get lost in Inner Mongolia. About the
public display and execution of 6 criminals
in one of the cities we visited while
we were there. And about the co-existence
of desert and glaciers in one part of
China. We've certainly learned a lot in
the course of our 2 weeks in China - it
was just extraordinary. And one of the
reasons for undertaking this journey was
to gain access to parts of China which
we might never have an opportunity to
do. Well that's our lengthy commentary
on where we are and how we got here. We're
one third of our way to Paris. We have
some repairs to make to the automobile's
undercarriage, to the clutch system and
get the carburetor adjusted to the lower
altitude and then we'll be on our way
to India in a few days. Glad to be back
with you here on the update. We welcome
the friends and families of many of the
participants who have learned about our
updates in our web site and who are taking
advantage of access of information to
try to get a feel about how things are
going for their family members who are
a part of this extraordinary event, the
first time since 1907 that automobiles
have attempted to travel on what is really
quite an arduous route from Peking to
Paris. It's not only the drive, it's a
matter of getting through some pretty
extraordinary places with automobiles
where roads. for all practical purposes,
don't exist even in 1997. We've gotten
this far, approximately about 6,000 kilometers
into our journey and another, I forget
the exact number, but another 8,000 -
10,000 kilometers to go, I think. I think
I'll stop there. Those are just some random
thoughts and reassurance that we and our
cohorts have successfully gotten this
far and I just want to say it is really
quite remarkable to see the determination
of the people who are a part of this event.
Many people with lesser drive or desire
would probably pack it in, but there really
is a very extraordinary commitment by
those who decided to take on this challenge
to see it through. And so it is with us.
Thanks for being with us at this time
and we'll, in 24 hours, have another update
for you as you come along with Carl and
Don on our trip around the world. So long
for now.