Thursday, September
18, 1997
DJ - Welcome to the Himalayan Mountains
within eyesight of incredible Mt. Everest.
Don and Carl with the update for the 13th
day of our travel in China. We have one
more day to endure our trip through China
and we'll be our way into Nepal. I say
endure because everyday on the road is
very demanding. Today we want to describe
what the real conditions are. We don't
want you to think that we're whinning.
Traveled about 325 kilometers today and
that would seem like an easy thing to
do, although 300 of the kilometers were
on roads that were dirt and gravel. It
seems that there is no what we would consider
to be highway/thoroughfare between China
and Nepal and all there is a poorly maintained
dirt road, at times gravel road and on
occasion, some asphalt. And because the
road is through the foothills of the Himalayan
Mountains, the road is not particularly
well maintained and in fact is closed
4-5 months out of the year. And the idea
of being in the Himalayans probably sounds
pretty romantic, but Don and Carl want
to tell you not to schedule a vacation
to the Himalayas. It's a rather dismal
place this time of the year in September,
very barren, no plant life, no tree life,
no wild birds, in part because of the
extreme elevations. Our travel today ranged
between 14 and 16,000 feet. We passed
a major obstacle, by going over a mountain
pass just under 16,000 feet and that was
a cause for celebration by all of the
participants in the Peking to Paris Motor
Challenge. However, in the course of the
day, traveling in the dust and dirt of
the roads, the cars became covered with
dirt and grime and not only on the outside,
but on the inside as well, and so all
the drivers end the day pretty tired and
pretty dirty as a matter of fact.
Today the 1954 Packard was
generally successful in that we survived
some awesome and pounding driving conditions.
We would not recommend taking a passenger
car from Lhasa, Tibet to Katmandu, Nepal,
and in fact, there are very few passenger
cars to even attempt to use this road.
It is mainly used by some Chinese truck
traffic, by Toyota Land Cruiser type vehicles
and by local buses that serve some of
the rural communities. We saw a side of
human life today that was rather gut wrenching.
Throughout our trip across China, thus
far, we've engaged thousands of people
waving, but today we encountered a situation
where children would come to the roadside
and rather than wave, they would put their
hands out in gesture of asking and begging.
And as we went further, deeper into the
Himalayas, the gestures went from putting
their hands out to putting their hand
in their mouth, expressing a need to receive
food. These children were very young,
3-6 years of age and then there was an
older group, 6-12 years of age, who actually
would be so bold as to lock hands and
form a blockade across the highway. As
the cars would approach, we, the drivers,
would honk and the children would move
aside, just barely, as the car would pass
and part of the gamesmanship was also
just touching the car. The human beings
that we have seen here have a very striking
resemblance to the North American Native
Indians, and in fact, their lifestyle
is very comparable to American Indians/Native
Americans. People here still live in tents,
as we have observed, there are some scattered
villages and housing strikingly like pueblo
housing in Arizona, with two story adobe
mud type dwellings. Life is very primitive.
The use of donkeys for transportation
and pulling carts. The use of oxen to
pull plows and work fields. Life is very,
very primitive. There was a wheat field
that I observed being harvested today
and rather than using one of those John
Deere 9200 14 feet wide head combines,
what I saw today was 14 people with hand
sickles working their way across a wheat
field, gathering the wheat and putting
it in stakes. So, we've seen a side of
life that is quite sobering. And the further
we have penetrated into the Himalayas
we find that the living conditions and
the needs of the people become more and
more severe.
There are a couple of incidents
to report involving other participants
in the Challenge today. A 1966 truck,
an American truck, operated by a couple
I believe are from the Netherlands, encountered
a ditch in the road and ran off the road
and damaged the front end of the Chevrolet
truck. The truck was very well outfitted
for the rigors of this travel, but they
did not see the obstacle in the road soon
enough to avoid going off the road and
we understand the vehicle cannot be repaired.
The American women team of Linda Dodwell
and Genny Obert, who are operating a 1968
Hillman, lost a wheel today and a windshield
and at this very moment late at night,
repairs are being attempted to get that
vehicle road worthy. The Challenge began
with 94 participants from Peking, 7 have
retired over the course of the last 13
days. One additional retirement today.
Do want to report to our technical advisors,
Alan and Joe, that the Packard is definitely
taking a beating. As much as we planned
for ground clearance and the suspension
system, we're unable to keep air in the
suspension system and consequently have
very little ground clearance. The problem
is at this altitude we didn't anticipate
that the shock absorbers would not hold
the air and in addition to that, the pumping
equipment of Chinese tire stores/stations,
cannot interface with the receptacle for
the suspension system. We had some really
severe encounters with ground clearance
today and did some damage to the steel
undercarriage. We do want to report to
Alan that as we were climbing the 16,000
foot pass today, that we used the auxiliary
fuel booster and that was very, very helpful
in getting us to the summit. The car is
running mechanically well, but the undercarriage
- well, let's just say that rather than
driving across the Himalayas today, I
think we were kind of skiing as we worked
our way through these very difficult ground
conditions.
Tonight we're camped out
within view of Mt. Everest and some of
the highest peaks of the Himalayan Mountain
chain. I commented last night that this
region is a staging area for mountaineering
and we want to clarify that there are
44 mountains that are used for mountaineering
in excess of 18,000 feet, and the exact
altitude of Mt. Everest, which I can see
as I speak to you, is 29,800 and some
odd feet, the highest mountain in the
world. If you want to know more about
Mt. Everest, there currently is a very
thoughtful and rather frightening book
about mountaineering and the loss of 12
American lives last year, as well as New
Zealander lives on Mt. Everest. The book
is on the best seller list in the United
States, referred to as Into Thin Air ,
written by a journalist from Seattle,
I believe his name is Jon Krakauer and
we would recommend that you consider reading
that book. It's very insightful, not only
about the purpose and the reasoning behind
mountaineering, but some of the incredible
human efforts, dedication and sacrifices
that are made. The satellite telephone
that we're speaking to you for this update
on, was recommended to us by the mountaineering
expedition organization in Seattle that
uses this very telephone device on Mt.
Everest. And I recall when reading the
book by Krakauer that they had this satellite
telephone system and were able to speak
to their families only hours before they
encountered conditions from which they
could not recover and survive. We're using
the satellite telephone in a field at
the base of Mt. Everest. We're currently,
on the present road system, 5,580 kilometers
from Peking. We're currently at an altitude
of 14,000 feet and generally, I think
we've climatized to the altitude with
a combination of medication and the consumption
of a lot of fluids and water. I think
we're doing OK as far as the altitude
is concerned.
In general, I think things
here for us have gone quite well. We're
anxious to leave China. Tomorrow we'll
have been here for two weeks and have
had a lot of experiences and we've survived
a lot of circumstances that other people
have not. We certainly don't want to gloat
about that because who knows what tomorrow
may bring. Our objective now is to reach
Katmandu, Nepal. We have another day of
travel tomorrow and another night of camping
and then we will enter Katmandu, with
a couple days rest there.
Another observation here.
I want to report that the Birmingham,
Alabama team, Ted Thomas, Andy Vann and
the other two fellows, had a mechanical
problem with a steering linkage on the
road today. They are just fine. I know
Mrs. Vann listens to our reports and update
and we want her to know they are just
fine, but those 1950 Fords, two pairs
of them, took a pounding and the steering
linkage on one caused a delay in their
reaching camp tonight and we want to assure
her that repairs are being made and the
fellows are OK.
Well that's what our thoughts
are. Carl has bedded down here, getting
ready to sleep under the stars, which
he tells me are spectacular tonight. Can't
help but think about those children in
need that we saw today. Carl commented
that they seem to have only the shirts
on their backs and their clothing and
I commented that they didn't even have
that. In fact, they had very little clothing
and it was pretty obvious that they have
some significant needs, but we didn't
think or feel that we had very much to
offer to help them with their needs, so
we're a little distressed at seeing and
experiencing that today. It was several
hundred times, it wasn't just one or two
incidences, it was across several hundred
miles that we observed that human condition,
that human need. That's all part of our
learning about this wonderful world of
ours. We're privileged to be healthy and
to be in the location that we are and
to gaze at almost a spring like skyline
with Mt. Everest very prominent right
here before our very eyes. We've completed
day 13 on the Peking to Paris run and
the travel is getting more and more demanding
and taking its toll on both the machinery
and people, but we're persevering and
doing the best we can. We thank you for
joining this update and we look forward
to another opportunity to speak to you
tomorrow at this same time. So long for
now.