Tuesday, September
16, 1997
DJ - Greetings, we have entered
Lhasa, the capital of Tibet and we are
glad for it, although with high altitude,
it's hard to do simple things, such as
breathing. The elevation here is 12,500
feet. Lhasa is the second highest city
in the world. We'll leave it to you to
research where the highest city in the
world is , it's very close to Lhasa, but
as part of our sharing this experience,
we invite you to discover where the highest
city is and we'll pass that fact on to
you in another report. This is the update
for Carl and Don in Lhasa, Tibet trying
to keep it together and go forward on
our journey around the world. We're doing
OK, but beginning to feel the fatigue
and the strain of the travel and of the
physical demands of so many factors. So
in a synopsis, we've arrived in Lhasa.
To add to the intrigue, there is some
question as to how and if we'll be able
to leave China. This has to do with road
conditions over the Himalayas and recent
landslides and typhoon rains that have
washed out bridges. There are a lot of
rumors circulating amongst the participants
and we're scheduled to leave at 6:30 AM
tomorrow, our time. We're approximately
one half day on the other side of the
world from where you are. This report
being sent your way on a day off at about
11 AM on whatever day it is. I'll look
at my clock here that says 9/16, Tuesday.
One tends to lose track of the days when
you're out here proceeding on this journey.
What you do is you struggle and deal with
what you have to do at the moment and
lose track of time.
The '54 Packard has just
been brutalized by the driving conditions.
The roads here are used primarily by trucks.
We want to be very fair to the Chinese.
It isn't that they're not doing their
best to keep up, in fact, one analogy
I would make is to have roads in this
terrain is like asking to have roads in
all of Alaska, where there practically
are none, or asking the Canadians to have
roads in northern Canada, something that
is just impossible. And it's a near impossibility
here, but there is a roadway and it's
used 90% by heavy trucks, millions of
trucks that move across all of China.
We are 3,580 kilometers from Peking and
it was 1,300 miles from Golmund to Lhasa
through a vast frontier. Not very many
people and spectacular scenery. We crossed
a mountain range pass yesterday of 15,400
feet and did that successfully. We mentioned
that breathing is difficult here. We had
a tire blowout just 10 kilometers outside
of Lhasa and we were able to ask the public
safety officers, otherwise known as the
local police to help us change the tire.
You'd think that changing a tire would
be something that two adult men could
possibly do, but simply breathing and
exerting yourself is very, very hard.
So the public safety officers here, who
do many things to help visitors, agreed
and offered to help us change the tire.
We offered them in exchange the equivalent
of 12 US dollars, or 100 Yuan Chinese.
They declined to accept, however they
were having fruit after we changed the
tire and we offered to purchase an apple
from them in exchange for 100 Yuan which
they accepted. The average wage of a Chinese
person is about 450 US dollars, or in
Chinese about 200 Yuan for the six million
public safety officers and about 400 Yuan
for a professional college educated person.
In the United States the medium income
is about $25,800 dollars.
Here in Tibet, there is
tremendous mystery of the culture and
the history of Lhasa. Many people killed,
died up until the 1930's trying to enter
the Forbidden City of Lhasa. It was in
the 1930's that the British sent a military
detachment from India to enter Lhasa.
The Russians attempted to engage the Tibetans
in some sort of arrangement from the North.
They were not successful at that. Our
recollection is that the first Americans
to enter Lhasa were some American aviators
who had to bail out at night from their
aircraft as they were crossing the Himalayas
and they landed by parachute in a place
they did not know where they were or what
it was about and it turned out to be Lhasa.
It was in 1959 that the Han Chinese, who
are the 90% race in all of China, took
control of Tibet and the controversy has
swirled since then. The Dalai Lama, the
religious, political and economic leader
of Tibet is in exile. You can learn more
about Tibet in exile by finding the web
site that contains information about Tibet
(www.tibet.com). Here in this city of
203,000 and this province of 2.2 million
people, they consume tea at the rate of
25 cups a day and they include yak butter
in their tea. The people are very, very
cordial. They remind you of Peruvian Indians
or the native people of Chile, very similar
in their colorful dress and their skin
tones and in their very pleasing manners.
Some other thoughts we'd
like to share with you on this update.
We've explained many times that this is
not a race and to illustrate that, our
average speed in the last 48 hours has
been 37 kilometers an hour, that's approximately
22 miles an hour. We're very thankful
telephone messages here in Lhasa from
my Mother who passed along some information
about the fact that Lake Superior is much
larger than Koko Nor, the very large lake
where we attempted to camp out. I say
attempted because the temperature reached
approximately 8 degrees. They say that
we're suppose to camp out or tent out
as we cross the Himalayas and within view
of Mt. Everest and they say the temperature
there is below freezing, so we don't know
quite what to expect, other than another
sleepless night. Well, my Mother, who
I just find wonderful and has been a tremendous
influence in my life in learning and gathering
knowledge, reports that Lake Superior
is 350 miles by 160 miles, which contrasts
with 150 miles by 50 miles for China's
largest lake, Koko Nor. My Mother also
researched from her atlas information
the fact that the square miles in China
are 3.6 million and that contrasts to
the United States, which is 3.7 million.
So China, from a square mileage basis,
has almost 6 times more people, that being
1.2 billion, with slightly less square
mileage that the United States with 260
million people in the US population.
The Potala which is the
monastery of Buddhism dominates the landscape
here in the city of Lhasa. We'll have
an opportunity this day to visit that
monastery. We are grateful to be in an
urban city, however, we're reminded how
far and detached we are from the rest
of the world. The newspapers here arrive
one week later than they're published.
So the newspaper we were able to secure
here from the hotel, The China Daily,
English language is the same paper we
read in Peking seven days ago. There are
10 channels of television. CNN being one
of them, the International CNN, and two
Star TV, which is the Asian television
service from Hong Kong for all of Asia.
The '54 Packard is showing
signs of wear and tear. Keeping air in
the tires, keeping the spark plugs clean,
keeping the carburetor going, very basic
things are all of what we're struggling
with, but we're pretty convinced that
if anything can push through these conditions
and succeed, the Packard ought to be able
to do it. The question is can the drivers
do that? We're privileged to be here.
We're aware of what an awesome proposition
this is, although each day we discover
how really awesome it is and we're determined
to persevere.
The other competitors are
quite remarkable in their resourcefulness.
There are teams here from the UK - they
tend to be sort of fiddlers and fettle
with their equipment. They also tend to
need a lot of hand holding. The Greek
team which is operating a '55 Chevy are
very congenial and delightful people to
be with. One of them is a surgeon. The
Iranian team, which has three cars, are
going right along. Very friendly people,
very skilled in their auto mechanics and
being resourceful with the conditions.
The Australians are very good natured.
The French team are very determined to
win the competition by staying up with
the very complex daily timing system and
the demands of meeting the course timing.
Our aspiration is to meet the standards
necessary to stay on the course and to
get to Paris and to secure a metal in
the process. So far we remain qualified
to do that. The Americans who are still
entered in the competition are described
as easy going and easy to be around and
easy to get along with. On the other hand,
the Europeans kind of look down their
noses at the American equipment and at
the American comprehension of the difficulty
and what it takes to get through these
various cultures, these various conditions.
Our next task is to get to Katmandu, which
is on the other side of the Himalayas
and they tell us as difficult as things
have been up to this point that they're
going to be even more difficult to get
to Kathmandu. That will be a three day
process beginning tomorrow.
Those are some random thoughts.
I find that as I attempt to prepare these
reports that my mind is a little bit disconbobbled,
if that is a real word, in that I'm not
quite as organized and one does feel the
effects of the altitude. Airplanes have
to be pressured and have oxygen at 8,000
feet and so one is reminded constantly
as you walk about, as you even talk, as
I am now, that to be at this altitude
and to try to carry on normally is really
not very likely. We're OK and the car
is hanging in there and we're pleased
to have this day of rest and to catch
up with some messages from family and
friends. We're also pleased that we can
share this experience with you. It is
so very much more meaningful to be able
to do that and for me it was probably
the only way that I was willing to take
this time away from family life by knowing
we could stay in contact and so far, we've
been able to do that and that is really
quite encouraging.
Carl himself is doing fine.
Getting more rest than we've been able
to get the last couple of days. Physically
doing well. He did mention that his belt
buckle had shrunk two notches and that
he's gotten to the point where there isn't
another notch in his belt. So that's another
problem that we'll have to solve, but
a good one. And my belt seems to be moving
a notch or two also.
That's the report for now
from Lhasa, the capital of Tibet. This
capital city has been sort of under control
of the Chinese since 1959 and the source
of a lot of world controversy as to what
is correct and proper for Tibet. We'll
not get into the political dissertation,
but we'll tell you there are a lot of
books on the subject. There's a tremendous
amount of mystery and intrigue and almost
incredible, incomprehensible things that
have happened throughout history in all
of Tibet and particularly from this regional
capital city of Lhasa. We're told that
Richard Halliburton, a famous American
explorer in the 20's and 30's, wrote a
lot of books and made a lot of travel
documentaries on the subject and his material
would be a good place to begin to learn.
So we've made it to Lhasa. We've persevered
through some pretty difficult conditions,
certainly out of the norm of what our
experience is. We're pleased to be in
Lhasa and we're gathering out breath and
getting ready to proceed across the Roof
of the World, the Himalayan Mountains,
within about 40 kilometers of the peak
of Mt. Everest. We'll actually be at the
base camp of Mt. Everest for one of our
camp outs if we do proceed in that direction.
I'll conclude with the observation that
there is some question as to where we're
going to be able to go and how we're going
to be able to leave China and get to either
India or Pakistan from Tibet. We'll tell
you in the next 24 hours what happens.
Stay with us and thanks for joining us
for yet another update on this our tenth
day of travel from Peking to Paris. So
long until the next time.