Monday, September 15,
1997
DJ - This report reaches you from
Tibet. We have completed our ninth day.
We survived the eighth and ninth day after
forty-eight hours of grueling driving
and tremendous demands on both person
and automobile. We are about to begin
the tenth day and enter the mysterious
forbidden city of Lhasa, the historic
capital of Tibet and one of the great
wonders of the world. We are 350 km away
from Lhasa and if good fortune, skill,
perseverance, determination, and God's
Will are with us, we will enter Lhasa
today and at the same time get our first
view of the Himalayan Mountain range.
At this moment we are 3,580km away from
Peking. We are at an elevation of 12,500
feet at a Tibetan regional city of Nagqu.
Yesterday we came to Nagqu
from the camping site that we reported
to you on the eighth day. That camping
site was near the village and the Chinese
army base of Tuotuoheyan. We had a not-so-great
experience there, attempting to camp out
at an elevation of nearly 13,000 feet.
There was no alternative because the distance
between Golmund, which is on the far western
Gansu Province of China and our destination
Lhasa there are no facilities. So it was
just imperative that we had to over night
by tenting. We have of the facilities
for that but the temperature was minus
ten Celsius, which when you convert to
Fahrenheit is eight degrees. We did everything
we conceivably could to stay warm and
to get sleep but it was just not possible.
We awoke to find frost on everything at
that location. Coupled with the driving
conditions and limited sleep, for forty-eight
hours we had a bit of a tough go. We are
feeling great at this moment because when
we arrived in Nagqu we secured a hotel
room, which for Carl and I meant the great
joy of a clean bed and a warm shower.
However when you secure a hotel room in
this part of China you have the option
of determining whether you want warm water
or a room without warm water. The warm
water is only available for two hours
in the evening from 9:00pm to 11:00pm.
These are the curious things you discover
when you travel.
Nagqu is regional agricultural
center for Tibet. The language here is
Tibetan not Chinese. Although Tibet is
a part of China. Since 1959 it has been
designated as a special administrative
region, an SAR. Which is the same designation
that Hong Kong has at the present time.
That is how China refers to its colonies
or its states, SARs (Special Administrative
Region). We delayed our update report
to you by about twelve hours then we had
normally been doing. Not only staging
our reports before we go to bed but this
report is coming to you as we are about
to begin today's drive to Lhasa. I hope
we did not alarm anyone with that delay
in giving you our update.
Our report is coming to
you by the extraordinary and marvelous
technology of satellite telephone. We
are currently at a site of six miles outside
the city of Nagqu, where all the cars
are being set off in one minute intervals
for today's motor challenge. The challenge
is taking its toll both on people and
on equipment. We understand that there
will be 82 cars departing the control
point this morning, although they never
really know until the drivers and the
cars report to the control center. One
car from Greece was actually towed to
the location so that they could officially
report and remain in the competition.
The number of cars have fallen by the
wayside, it is possible that you may know
more about that then we do based on reports
from London, the headquarters of the controlling
organization. We can report that the second
Buick, operated by a Singapore team, fell
out of the competition and is currently
mounted on top of a Chinese transport
truck. The drivers hope to get it to New
Lhasa or Katmandu to make repairs. So
it is also of the Rolls Royce from Australia,
the queen's limousine as it is referred
to, has secured a broken spring and it
currently also is on the back of the Chinese
transport truck, being hauled to Lhasa
for possible repairs or possibly to Katmandu
to be sent back to Australia.
We want to report to Alan
and Joe what the circumstances are with
the 1954 Packard, while it is getting
us down the road, it is beginning to show
signs of wear and tear. At the moment,
they know that our manifold is broken
and we have the sound and fumes of odor
to go with that condition. We know that
our fuel gauge is not operating and while
we are certain what our fuel consumption
and capacity is we have no indication
of fuel. Our air compressor on board the
car, to maintain our air suspension system
is inoperative. We are having a difficult
time securing adequate air from any local
tire repair stores. That's an entire story
in itself. We take so much for granted
in our culture. Getting air is a big proposition
here in remote China. It took us one hour
yesterday to find air to put in our four
tires. Air is so incredibly important
because of these elevations. Everything
is deflated and it's hard to maintain
normal pressure. Also the carburation
on the car continues to be a source of
adjustment and trying to keep running
the car correctly. We think the engine
is sound. We did change the spark plugs
yesterday. That improved things a bit.
To place the demand on both humans and
cars at these high altitudes requires
some patience and really quite a bit of
effort. Carl is nearby here with me and
I am going to hand the telephone to him
for his observations.
CS - Hello friends
and relatives. As Don told you we had
a very good nights sleep. The hotel was
one of the better Chinese hotels that
we were in. We are standing in view of
the Himalayas and on grassy plains as
far as the eye can see, not a tree. We
have been looking at yaks. I never really
paid much attention to a yak. A yak looks
like a cow that has angora goat hair on
its underside, the mane and tail of a
horse, and it even has hair hanging down
into its eyes. We are now facing going
into one of the wonders of the world,
Lhasa. They tell me that it is a difficult
road but we will persevere and be there
this evening. Again, Hello to all friends
and relatives if you have any need to
contact us we are going to be at the Holiday
Inn in Lhasa for a good sitting. Here
is Don.
DJ - OK, nearby here
with us, we have told you about this character
from Australia John Bryson, who wears
a tie everyday. I know everyone is interested
to see that he does have his tie on this
morning. He happens to be nearby. Let
me take advantage of his presence and
say hello to you John. We have our family
and friends here on the telephone. Share
with us how it is going for you today.
JOHN - Good morning.
I don't know if you can understand my
funny Australian accent, but it is very
good to talk to you. It incredible to
be here with Don in the middle of the
wildest countryside I have ever seen.
It makes Mojave Desert look like paradise.
All is going well and we are making incredible
friendships with people we would have
never met. The drive is really a challenge
to get from place to place. We are meeting
the most incredible adventurors I have
ever met, including Don Jones. Good Luck
to you all, it's a pleasure to talk to
you.
DJ - Well thank you
and I think that completes a pretty good
overview of how we are doing here on days
nine and ten. We completed, or we would
say survived, day nine, and we are about
to begin day ten. On another report we
will explain to you why driving and traveling
is so treacherous, so difficult. I think
Carl said it very well yesterday when
he said that in China to drive 200km is
like driving a thousand miles in United
States. That is to say the amount of time,
the amount of fatigue to drive a thousand
miles in the US is what is takes to drive
200km here in rural and remote China.
We are driving an average of 400km to
600km per day. We will explain to you
the road surfaces and in a little more
in detail why it has become so very difficult.
I would say that the principle that applies
in all cultures and societies, the further
you are from the governing capital city
the further away that you go, whether
it is a county, a state, or a country,
from the center of the governest, it seems
that the infrastructure become less and
less. While the Chinese are doing a very
good job of advancing their culture from
the 18th and 19th century, they are still
much to be done in the rural remote parts
of China. It is such a vast extraordinary
place. We have passed numerous mountain
ranges, not one or two as in the US in
the case of the Appalachians and Rockies.
My recollection is that we have passed
as many as eight mountain ranges. It is
a extraordinary place with tremendous
needs. The further we have gotten from
Peking the more difficult the travel has
become. I will summarize by saying that
we are 3,580km at this moment from Peking.
We have 350km to go today to reach Lhasa,
the capital of Tibet. We are in Tibet
at this moment in an agriculture community
called Nagqu, the center of the yak trade,
sheep, goat, and rice trade. Our health
is good after forty-eight hours of very,
very difficult going. We are determined
to get through the tenth day. We will
let you know how that goes. For now that's
the news from the Peking to Paris Motor
Challenge, and Don and Carl's trip around
the world. So long till next time.