Thursday, October 9,
1997
DJ - We have arrived in the city
of Istanbul. Welcome to the update with
Carl and Don. It is with joy, gratitude,
and a real sense of accomplishment that
we greet you from this exceptional city
in this part of the world, Istanbul. We
entered this city by crossing one of two
major bridges across the Straits of the
Bosporus, in the late afternoon. It was
a little bit like entering Manhattan by
way of the New Jersey turnpike and the
Lincoln tunnel during rush hour. The six
lane highway narrowed down to four lanes
across a magnificent bridge that stretches
across the Bosporus Straits. Istanbul
has been for centuries a region capital
of this part of the world. By transferring
the land mass, that is to the west of
city, Asia and Asia minor, one crosses
over on to the land mass that is Europe.
That is where we speak to you at midday
on Friday October the 10th. We are just
relieved to be in Istanbul. It has taken
a lot to get this far in our journey from
Peking to Paris. Everybody who has arrived
here is in a celebratory mood, with dinner
and an awards presentation scheduled for
tonight, Friday October the 10th. The
awards, I think, are going to be for some
of the sillier and fun things that were
memorable along the route thus far from
Peking, not so much for any competitive
awards. We will report to you how that
turns out.
We can report to you that
Turkey is a beautiful country. We understand
that an exceptional fall season has settled
in the Midwest of the United States and
our favorite place to be Wisconsin. In
checking in with family and friends we
understand that the temperatures have
been very pleasant, 70's and 80's, and
the fall colors are in full blossom. That
breathtaking time of the year that we
call autumn. I can also report to you
however that it is autumn and fall here
in Turkey. The temperatures are equivalent,
79 degree Fahrenheit. There is a lot of
color across the countryside. Farmers
are doing fall plowing. It appears there
is a second growing season here, so farmers
are drilling grains into the soil for
the second crop of the season. Agriculture
is a big part of the economy here. As
you drive across Turkey from village to
village you see different produce commodities
that are grown in the local community
and sold at roadside produce stands. Thus
we came across a village where the specialty
was cabbage and we saw these extraordinary
sized cabbages that Carl exaggerated about
in one of our updates.
Istanbul is a city that
had an extraordinary amount of growth
over the last two decades. Local citizens
tell us that 20 years ago the population
was 1 million people. Today Istanbul's
population is reported to be between 13
and 14 million, which is as much as 18
to 20 percent of the total population
of Turkey of approximately 70 million.
The city of Istanbul reached out for 50km
before you arrive in the center of the
city. There is an extraordinary amount
of economic development occurring here,
with high rise buildings and industrial
commercial buildings under construction.
As you drive across Turkey you also see
a lot of abandoned building projects,
the victims of another extraordinary phenomenon,
that is inflation. In May of 1996 the
exchange rate for the dollar was 6,700
to 1. In October of 1997 the exchange
rate is 167,000 Turkish lira to 1 US dollar.
Consequentially, a lot of social pressure
and a lot of discontent underline the
present economic and the public attitudes
in Turkey.
We have the experience of
driving a toll highway motorway that stretches
from Anakara to Istanbul, the distance
of 500km. It is a magnificent motorway
of six lanes. But oddly there is very
little traffic on the motorway. One of
the explanations given is that local people
can not afford the approximate dollar
to two dollar toll fare to use the motorway.
Those few cars that are on the motorway
travel at exceptional rates of speed,
80 to 100 miles an hour. There are a few
transport trucks on the highway but it
is a strange feeling to be on a four and
six lane highway with very few vehicles
anywhere in the vicinity of you as you
travel across this highway.
The 1954 Packard, on this
day of rest, is in the local garage receiving
attention to breaks, which have become
soft, and trying to sort out the fire
in the electric wiring that we experienced
when we entered Turkey at the Iran border
which has knocked out some of our systems
such as windshield wipers. While it is
a beautiful, clear, sunny fall day, we
are anticipating that it might rain one
day and we may need the windshield wipers.
So the car is getting some mechanical
attention which is a discipline that we
feel is necessary to successfully and
safely complete our journey. A lot of
other cars are getting mechanical attention,
the Bel Air Chevrolet station wagon operated
by Bud from Florida and supported by the
Fortune family of Florida. The Fortunes
were unable at the last minute to make
the trip because of family health considerations.
In any event the Bel Air Chevrolet station
wagon had an electrical fire, right on
the bridge crossing the Bosporus Straits
at 4:30 in the middle of the traffic congestion
of the afternoon. The fire was put out
with an extinguisher and it was remarkable
the car was able be driven off the bridge
and is in the garage getting attention
at this moment. An Italian car has lost
an oil pump. The Morris Minor that had
a repair to its piston is once again experiencing
engine difficulty and is getting attention.
Two cars have returned from way back down
the road. The Buick from Singapore had
a rebuilt engine somewhere over the several
100km and the drivers of that vehicle
have caught up. They were consuming as
much as a gallon of oil at one time in
that V8 engine a day. They had repairs
made and they are back here in Istanbul.
A car, referred to as an Allard from the
nation of Malta, has had an extraordinary
amount of difficulty. The two men that
are operating that car have been able
to get repair to the torque drive shaft
and are once again back in the competition.
The weather here has been
very pleasant fall weather. Actually,
through the entire trip we have been blessed
with good weather conditions. The cars
that you see here in the public streets,
here in Istanbul, are German and French
in origin with a few American cars but
very few. Curiously, the second language
of Turkey is not English, in fact it is
German. Because for the last several years
many people have migrated to Germany,
as many as 2 million currently from Turkey
are said to be in Germany. This has created
some controversy and public unrest in
Germany. As a result of decades of people
moving back and forth to Germany, curiously
enough as you attempt to carry on conversations
with Turks the second language of choice
is German and not English. In fact the
English language is a little difficult
here in Turkey. We would highly recommend
the visit to Turkey. It is really a beautiful
country, starting with the mountains in
the west and gradually descending across
the country to sea level. The Bosporus
Straits connect the Black Sea and the
Aegean Sea. It is just a very beautiful
city. My wife, Terri, and I had the occasion
to visit Istanbul in the fall of last
year. We remarked then, and I still feel
today, that Istanbul is one of those cities
that you would like to visit more that
once. They have an extraordinary bazaar
here that goes for not only block but
miles and one can get lost in the bazaar
for an entire day without any difficulty.
It seemed curious to us a year ago that
John F. Kennedy Jr., when he got married,
chose Istanbul as a place for his honeymoon.
It is very cosmopolitan, very congested,
very active, very modern, and very comfortable
city.
We are at this moment on
the second major stage of our trip to
Paris, the first being Katmandu in Nepal,
and now Istanbul. Our travels have brought
us 10,000km at this point with approximately
3,000km to go to Paris. There are 260km
to the border of Greece, which we reach
tomorrow. Then we will be spending three
days traversing Greece. After that early
next week we will leave Greece and enter
Italy by way of the Adriatic Sea and a
ferry crossing. We will be arriving on
the shore of Italy, opposite Rome, at
the city of Rimini. Our trip for next
week takes us into Austria, Germany, and
ultimately arriving in France, the city
of Reims, on Friday, with our entry into
Paris scheduled for Saturday, October
18th, a week from tomorrow. With God's
will and our skill, we will be there.
Well that is an overview.
Some closing comments, in our next update
we are going to present our reflections
on Iran, as we have said that we will.
In some upcoming updates we are going
to have some guests, I would like for
you to be aware of because these are quite
interesting and exceptional people. They
include Duncan and Brian Ashby from Great
Britain, who are driving a 1930 Delage
coupe, an open cockpit automobile. What
is unique about Duncan and Brian is that
they are father and son. There are about
six father/son and father/daughter teams
in the event. Not all young adults, but
middle aged adults. There are about a
dozen cars that have open cockpits. As
much as we think that we are doing quite
well with the modern 1954 Packard, there
are people who have no cover to their
vehicle only open coupes. In the tradition
of the originators of this events, in
1907 and 1908, they traveled in open automobiles
at that time as well. So we will have
Duncan and Brian Ashby to share some of
their exciting experiences. Jeanine Hill,
a well know figure in Great Britain, is
an author of 15 popular best seller novels.
We will have her as guest commentator.
We will also have John Matheson, who is
a neurosurgeon from Australia. We wish
that there were more days and more updates
because there are just a lot of interesting
people who make up the group of competitors
and fellow challengers in the Peking to
Paris Rally. So we have invited those
three to join us over the next week. We
think you will find them quite fascinating.
A few emails that we want
to acknowledge. Our daughter, Carol, sends
an update and for that we say thank you.
We look forward to seeing her in Paris.
I do want to remark about family and friends
communication. When the prospect of this
unusual journey was presented to me, one
of my concerns was about the potential
for isolation and the prospect of having
an experience that would divide one from
their family and friends. I must say that
the use of the toll free telephone exchange
information updates and the internet transcripts
and commentaries have had just the opposite
effect. It has drawn our family and friends,
as I had hoped, into their awareness and
sharing of this experience. That has made
it even more positive. I have talked to
other competitors who feel they are in
fact isolated and unable to explain and
comment to their family members how it
is going and what it has been like. Consequentially,
it has been difficult for them. I must
say that I want to celebrate and give
thanks for the communications flow, which
has gone both way from us to our family
and friends and back from our family and
new friends as well. We received an email
that brought a chuckle to us. That been
from Tabitha Estabrook of New York, who
read in the Financial Times and joined
us on the internet site to comment about
her remembrances of an extraordinary trip
made in the 1990's. She and a co-traveler
by the name of Jimmy Rogers, from New
York City, took BMW motorcycles around
the world. They traveled some 60,000 miles.
They traveled many, many countries and
all the continents, I believe. They wrote
a best seller book on the subject which
was very popular in the United States.
It described in their journals their experiences.
For her email message and good wishes
to us, we thank Tabitha Estabrook, who
we do not know but who we know of, for
being in contact with us.
To summarize then, we have
arrived in Istanbul. Two thirds of the
way to Paris. A week from tomorrow, if
it is possible, we will enter the city
of Paris in the 1954 Packard. An achievement
for the Packard which many of the competitors
will tell you as recently as this morning,
some of the Germans were commenting they
did not think that it was possible. But
anything is possible when one endures,
perseveres, and does what is necessary
to accomplish a goal. We are in good health.
Having our laundry done, that is another
important day off task. We are setting
our sites on Greece and then on into the
rest of Europe. We thank you for joining
us on this update. We will back with in
another 24 hours with further comments.
On behalf of Carl this Don saying good-bye
from Istanbul, the queen city in Turkey.