Wednesday, October
8, 1997
CS - This is October 8th the 33rd
day of the Peking to Paris. We are talking
from central Turkey, where we have seen
some very unusual sites since we came
in. Three and four story rock houses that
had been carved out hundreds of years
ago. We saw cabbages that were twenty
inches wide. Excellent roads, light traffic
making very good time. We held our place
at sixth in our class. We seem to be moving
up. The car ran very beautifully today.
I do want to send a little message to
Larry in La Crosse Wisconsin. I hope that
he hears this or somebody will call him.
We have seen through the whole Asian Continent,
from Beijing to Central Turkey, forest
management, tree farms, reforestation,
and a tremendous amount of it. It appears
to be just miles and miles of tree farming
and reforestation. There are a lot of
poplar trees and evergreens here in Turkey.
They are even more prevalent here in the
eastern part of Turkey than we have seen
other places, but it was also in Iran,
Pakistan, India, Nepal and throughout
China. I want to say happy birthday to
my son, Mark, today. I hope that Narcelle
has been getting my messages. Our friends,
relatives, and people who have been sending
email, we appreciate it all. We had a
good trip today, we are looking forward
to a good trip tomorrow into Istanbul.
We will report to you seeing some more
of the seven wonders of the world on the
Peking to Paris 1997/Don & Carl Around
the World. Here comes Don.
DJ - Well Carl I
want to confirm that the cabbages were
really, really big. They were as big as
a bushel basket. You would have to see
these cabbages to believe it. They are
larger than a basketball, larger than
anything you could think of like a globe.
They are huge. They are as big as a watermelon
or maybe even bigger. Phenomenal cabbages.
Well as we move across Turkey,
they say that your moving through different
centuries. That is to say that the part
we entered into Turkey is considered to
be the 17th and 18th century in its architecture
and its customs. The 18th and 19th century
we passed through today, we begin to see
changes in the housing and the landscape
in terms of the infrastructure. The 20th
and 21st century are about to appear as
we proceed to a more cosmopolitan and
urban part of Turkey. There are 79 autonomous
provinces in Turkey we are told. There
is a lot of internal strife and competition
for the leadership and the direction of
Turkey.
Turkey has always been isolated
between east and west, and at the moment,
Turkey very much wants to be part of the
EU (European Union Economic Community).
Consequentially it is trying to make some
of the social policy and economic policy
changes to make that happen. There is
outrageous inflation in Turkey at the
moment. 10% increase in inflation in the
last sixty days. We would like to tell
you about the gasoline shock. You undoubtedly
heard us report that you could come over
to Iran and fill up your tank for 10 cents
a gallon for regular gasoline. Well, now
that's a gallon by the way. Here in Turkey
gasoline is $1.15 a liter. 3.75 liters
to a gallon. $4.51 a gallon. We pulled
into our first gas stop here in Turkey
this morning and we filled her up and
were informed that the price was 16 million
of the Turkish currency. That translates
into $95.80 of US denomination. The Turkish
currency is called lira. The exchange
rate is extraordinary, 169,000 lira to
1 US dollar. So to illustrate to you what
that means, I exchanged $300 US dollars
for the purposes of gasoline and I received
25 million of the Turkish lira. Now that
really causes you some mental calculation
difficulties when you think about tipping
the service providers, whether in a restaurant
or at a hotel. For example, 500,000 lira
is approximately $3 US dollar. We have
had to adapt to this new math. Can you
imagine having to deal with it in terms
of everyday life.
There is quite a current
of unrest in Turkey. The population here
is 70 million contrasted to the neighboring
population of Iran of 60 million. We travel
through a region of Turkey that would
be similar to western United States and
our trip has brought us out of the mountainous
region into the plain. Sort of like the
great plain of Nebraska and the central
Midwest of the US. Now we are about to
proceed toward the sea, which is connected
by the Strait of the Bosporus where Istanbul
is located. We will be telling you more
about Istanbul's strategic location, formally
Constantinople. and before that, the Byzantine
capital. When the great leader of Rome,
Constantine, decided to move the capital
of the Roman empire to the city which
at that time was named Byzantium. We also,
in passing through this marvelous region
of Turkey, we could not help but see and
observe and watch very intense military
presence. This was not a standard military
standing on a country road or city street.
These were military units who were bunked
down in machine gun nests or sitting in
armored personal carriers or sitting behind
sand bag reinforcements. So we have inquired
from some of our Turkey hosts, what exactly
is going on and why all this extraordinary
manpower and military equipment. We see
trains carrying vast amounts of military
equipment. We see convoys of military
vehicles on the highway. The story that
we received is that there is the insurgency
of the Kurds, who are an indigenous population
to this region, who actually live in not
only Turkey, but Iran, Syria, and Iraq.
The Kurd population totals 30 million.
The Kurds as a group of people would like
to have their own autonomous state. To
do that Turkey would have to give up approximately
1/6 of its territory and of course other
countries would have to cooperate and
do something similar. All of which seems
rather unlikely. There is a rebellious
group called the PKK, which does carry
on terrorist activity. Evidently, the
Turkish army is on full-scale alert, although
we are told that from day to day there
does not seem to be skirmishes but it
tends to be a terrorist hit and run activity.
So as you travel through this region of
Turkey, every major pass in the mountain,
every strategic location of infrastructure,
and every entrance to a valley has a contingent
of full on duty, fully alert military
personal. We have the unnerving experience
of passing one of these installations
as we entered a valley, we could not help
but notice the soldier had one hand on
an activity, fully loaded, with his finger
on the trigger, machine gun and the hand
he was waving at the 1954 Packard and
the other vehicles in the motor challenge
from Peking to Paris who passed by. So
it is a sobering reminder that there is
unrest and uncertainty about the politic
destiny of this region of Turkey.
We are in a magical location
called Cappadocia. Cappadocia's history
dates back to 2000 B.C. The local history
books speak about Jesus as being a 30
year old who announced Christianity in
Palestine. A few hundred years later under
the persecution of the Romans, many Christians
fled the Roman empire and the Byzantine
empire and sought refuge in the caves
and caverns that Carl has described and
where we are located at this time. There
was also a group of people who lived in
this region in past centuries and I have
to verify their technical name but I believe
it was trigmagras. I, myself, have not
studied or heard of that group of people.
They lived in these soft rock dwellings
which are rather remarkable and are open
for public visit. It is rather like Indian
dwellings in the side the Grand Canyon
and Brice Canyon and other locations through
out the southwest of the United States.
After dinner tonight we
had a performance of the whirling dervish,
which is a religious practice involving
transcendental meditation. A form of mental
escape and concentration. We watched as
six men performed a religious ritual which
is referred to as the whirling dervish
and it is rather peculiar, unusual, and
inspiring to see this ritual performed.
They literally twirl their bodies constantly
in circle at high rate of speed for an
extended period of time. Thus comes the
expression, some days you look like a
whirling dervish.
We want to acknowledge some
email that we received in the course of
today. Our son, Joseph, keeps us well
informed of his activities and the fate
and fortune of the Green Bay Packers.
We have been getting regular updates on
the Packer and we thank Joseph for that.
We wish him and his friends well in the
white tail deer hunting season. Could
not help but think that as we passed all
these soldiers with fire arms today that
they were not out hunting as we know it
in Wisconsin. They were out in real life
and death situations. We understand that
many of our digital photo images have
appeared on the web site and we have received
many compliments about those as well as
some questions. Does the Packard have
air conditioning? When we are asked that
question we say yes and show people the
side vent windows. People who are old
enough to remember, this vintage car,
it has side vent windows which we move
back and forth from time to time on both
sides and it does throw air into the front
bench seat of the automobile. That is
in fact our air conditioning. No we have
not put the top down yet. We are relishing
doing that and we are looking very much
forward to present the Packard in a different
light than it has been thus far. It is
has been like a truck or an armored personal
carrier getting us across some very tough
terrain. We are not sure when the top
will come down. We may hold that off right
until our entry into Paris. That would
be very special. We also removed the hub
caps because of the treacherous road conditions,
so the car is not very handsome. We will
be putting those back on and dressing
the car up when we do arrive in Paris.
Mitch Hayne and Melanie Richmond who are
related to Burt Richmond in car 41, which
is a Citroen, report to us that their
family is enjoying following the updates.
It is nice of them to compare our commentaries
to Lowell Thomas, who as child we grew
up admiring and listening to. The Richmond
Citroen, yesterday, was gasping for air
and there was some concern about the engine.
It was taken apart at last nights overnight
stop and the valves were adjusted and
then it was discovered that it had a wiring
problem, which was identified and corrected.
Now the Richmond CV is back at full power.
The number of automobiles is currently
around 75 to 76, which means that roughly
twenty have fallen by the wayside. Most
of the cars at this point seem to have
settled into their performing condition
and they are running quite well.
There is, on the political
front, some friction Syria and Turkey.
Each has accused the other of a significant
build up of troops. We read about that
account in some of our email information,
which our staff shares with us and keeps
us informed. Syria has denied this. It
all involves the PKK, the Kurdistan Workers
Party and guerrilla activity on both the
Turkey and Syrian borders. Iraq, of course,
is involved in that dispute.
Tomorrow is day 34 and the
plan is to travel 735km, from Cappadocia
into Istanbul. This will take us through
the city of Ankara, which is now the modern
capital of Turkey. It was established
by Ataturk the father of Turkey. We will
then enter Istanbul and cross the Bosporus
and leave Asia and arrive in Europe. A
wonderful bridge crosses the Bosporus,
that was built by the Japanese. We will
have the opportunity to drive across it
tomorrow.
I want to thank my mother
and my brother, Bob, for their email and
for their nice wishes. I also thank my
wife, Terri, for sending along her remembrances
and good wishes. I want her to know that
though our son, Joseph's, use of the computer
we have received her message. A couple
final acknowledgments, to Bob and Charlotte
Butler in Lakeland Florida, we thank them
for their message. To Dee and Bro Park
in Grantham New Hampshire, at dinner tonight
we gave Bill Binnie, the driver of an
open Bentley automobile from the northeast
of the United States, their email greeting.
So it is nice to be part of this digital
electronic community of family and friends.
We thank you for joining us for this update.
We are going to put an end now to this
day and prepare for our long and we hope
successful journey into Istanbul. We will
let you know how that goes. So for now
this Don on behalf Carl saying so long.
Until tomorrow from Turkey.