Thursday, October 23,
1997
DJ - Back in the USA. Welcome to the update
with Don and Carl at midday on Thursday.
The United States truly is a blessed,
blest place. I use both blessed and blest
to explain the reaction that one has when
you return from Asia Minor, Persia and
the South Indian continents, the Himalayas,
Tibet and Western China to the blest United
States. Our houses are huge by global
standards. Our country is not densely
populated. Highways are orderly. There
is a richness about the United States
that is apparent in its infrastructure
that you immediately see and observe as
you reenter after two months of being
away from it. So I just share that feeling
which many of you who have traveled have
also experienced to pause and say thank
you God for all that we have and thank
you placing me at this place on the earth.
There are 5 billion people around the
world. Our journey took us to where 3
billion of those people live. The benefit
of that experience is perspective and
understanding. And for that, I'm very
grateful and I would say that that really
is the pay off of most forms of travel.
What I thought I would do
for this update is do what you do with
video tape and that is sort of rewind
the word presentation to a week ago, I'd
say Thursday and Friday. Things went pretty
quickly at the end of last week as we
approached Paris and there are a few things
I would like to add to the record. Let
me begin by commenting about the city
of Paris, a city of 14 million people.
France, as a country, has 70 million people.
France is going through a lot of turmoil,
social and economic, maybe that's an understatement
because it seems like it has always been
going through turmoil. France, after all,
is the birthplace of the Rights of Man,
as a result of the French Revolution and
the Bastille. So much has occurred in
modern history in France. But unemployment
today is at 14% and there's a lot of unrest
which is very evident publicly. The French
refer to public demonstrations as manifestations
and students on the weekends clog the
streets of Paris with parades and demonstrations.
During the week, transportation workers
march and perform, what we would call,
pickets. But the French have the genteel
expression of manifestations to describe
public demonstrations. The French Franc
is currently at 5.5 to 1 to the US dollar
and things are extremely expensive in
Paris. As you drive across the French
countryside, you daydream and reflect
about history in this century, World War
I and World War II. For my companion Carl,
who has made a lifetime hobby of studying
both wars, all of the major museums and
battlefields of central Europe, it was
essential that we paused at the American
Memorial in the countryside of France
for World War I. Carl can tell you about
the debate that raged about the funding
for the substantial memorial. It's equivalent
to the Lincoln Memorial or the Jefferson
Monument in Washington DC. It sits on
a high hill overlooking a river valley,
which was the scene of a major and strategic
pivotal battle in World War I. As Carl
explains it, the Americans arrived just
in time to deter the Germans from marching
into Paris, this being World War I. So
Americans have made quite a contribution
to France and to the current geography
of Europe and that's evident in the history
of the region between Reims and Paris.
Paris today is preparing for another type
of war, the 1998 World Soccer Cup Championship.
A brand new stadium has been erected and
seats 81,000 people, but it's surrounded
by commercial and residential neighborhoods.
When you ask, "What about parking?",
it's explained that there are only 4,000
parking spaces for this stadium and that
mass transit is the norm for people coming
to the World Soccer Cup Championships.
Police officials from around Europe are
meeting this week to discuss hoolaganism.
That's the word that's used to describe
war and battles that take place in the
stands of major soccer events and the
police are discussing what kinds of techniques
and procedures to use to ward off any
serious problems with hoolaganism. As
you drive a little further beyond the
new World Soccer Cup stadium in Paris,
you pass Le Bourget Airport which no longer
is an active airport, it's an Air Space
Museum. The significance of that place
on the earth is that it is where Charles
Lindbergh landed when he made the extraordinary
flight from the United States to Paris.
The border entry at France
and Germany was quite extraordinary. It
was extraordinary because there was absolutely
nothing that took place. No one was there.
It was as if you crossed the border between
California and Nevada, or Wisconsin and
Minnesota, or Wisconsin and Illinois.
No one was at the border of France and
Germany as we crossed yet another major
waterway of the world, the Rhine River.
Truly, we left Germany, crossed a bridge
that was also a dam for an electric plant
and other than a flag on the French side,
there was nothing to indicate that it
was a border crossing. That in itself
is quite indicative of the current trend
of the European Economic Community, EC,
or the Euro as it's referred to. Leading
up the Rhine River, we drove through the
Black Forest with a full moon at early
morning hours. At 8-10 o'clock, the moon
was still full and out. Fog was very heavy.
And of course the roads in Germany are
impeccable. There was an incident at the
border of Austria and Germany that was
indicative of the transition that's occurring
throughout Europe as people form attitudes
and feelings about the Euro community.
We'll have a discussion about Euro at
another update. But the incident that
transpired was that late in the afternoon,
we did cross the Austrian Alps and arrived
at the German border and there was a delay
in the traffic at a river crossing that
demarcated the Austrian German border.
There were about a dozen cars in line
and the driver of the car behind us got
out and after perhaps 5 minutes, walked
forward to see what the cause of the delay
was. The driver came back, he was from
the Netherlands, and said something to
the effect of, "Well so much for
Euro, they still want to control everything."
What he was referring to is that the car
at the head of the line was stopped and
the driver was carrying on a conversation
with the German guard who was posted at
the border. Later we discovered, that
the conversation was the border guard
asking the driver about the history of
his car. It seems there is so little to
do at border crossings these days that
when some of the antique and vintage cars
of the Peking to Paris Motor Challenge
arrive at the German border, the guards
are interested in knowing about the cars.
But the man from the Netherlands took
it to mean that the Germans were still
attempting to control the border when
in fact, that was not the case. But it
was very insightful in the attitude shifts
that is and must take place as all of
Europe attempts to come together in a
unified economic community, much like
the United States, or much like the US
and NAFTA with its neighbors of Mexico
and Canada.
Austria is picturesque and
placid. Cows are in the meadow. The Chalets
are where they've always been. Very serious
snow in the upper elevations of the Austrian
and the Italian Alps. We passed several
snow plows keeping the roads open. Well
that pulls together the images that we
accumulated as we left Italy and Lake
Garda on Tuesday and on Wednesday, Thursday
and Friday as we traveled to Austria,
Germany and France.
Well I find myself, being
back in the United States, thinking that
I really don't have a whole lot to talk
about on these updates. I've come to realize
that many rely on the updates to either
start their day or end their day. And
many people say before they go to bed,
they listen to the updates. We've become
competition for David Letterman and Jay
Leno. But I doubt that you're going to
be interested in what I had for lunch
on each given day in the future, so I
thought perhaps what I'd like to do is
discuss the re-entry process that occurs
when you undertake an unusual adventure
and what some of the re-entry realities
are as you engage in gearing to a normal
pace of life. Because it truly is a process.
For example in the area of communication,
people are excited to ask how was the
trip. And what you have to do in two minutes
or less is find the right choice of words
to give a satisfactory characterization
of the two month experience. Or, perhaps
in a media interview, you might have 20
minutes to discuss 15,000 miles of precarious,
life threatening, exhilarating and exhausting
travel. And then there's the matter of
re-engaging with family and helping them
to come to understand that changes that
may have occurred in either your attitude,
your physical changes or your psychological
changes. And that is a process that everyone
has to go through. There are the body
clock realities that any experienced traveler
knows. Today for me at 3 AM it seemed
very practical to get up and start the
day because it was 10 AM body clock time.
So a couple of hours of doing some things
and then back to bed and a few hours of
napping, and in a few days things will
get back to normal.
Well, my co-driver, co-survivor
as I describe him, I must say you cannot
describe our relationship as friends,
perhaps I'm too philosophical about that,
we certainly are companions, cohorts and
kindred spirits, but I think to say that
you're friends, perhaps places at risk
the notion of friendship. I think somewhere
between blood relative and friendship,
there is another level of human relationship
and that I think is the relationship between
Carl and I. Carl has returned to California
and has been back in communication with
his extended family. I have some articles
that I need to get to him, including the
small bear that Carl transported around
the world for one of his grandchildren
and we'll get that back to California
and get it in the hands of it's youthful
owner. I have some candy cigars from a
pretty fancy candy store in Paris that
need to get back to Carl. Carl, himself
is off to a new experience, a repeat of
an old experience. He'll be participating
in the Pan American Automobile Challenge
and Rally that occurs in Mexico starting
this weekend and into next week. He responded
to the appeal of a friend who needed his
help as a result of a loss of a driver
in that event. And while Carl has not
lacked for any driving recently over the
last two months, he agreed to respond
to the need of his friend and he's going
to participate, we hope, safely in the
Pan American Road Race in Mexico.
Tomorrow, Iran. One of the
things that I thought it convenient was
to not have to give the Iranian account
right away. I also found it useful to
have some time pass and I want to admit
both of those realities before I present
the Iranian commentary. I want the commentary
to be objective and thoughtful because
the Iranian experience was quite profound
and very unique and, as I said before,
very positive. But there are things about
Iran that require thought before they're
said and there are people's well being
that should not be duly affected by anything
that we might say or do. And so with the
passage of time, I think our Iranian report
tomorrow will be appropriate and will
be on the mark.
So I think I'll stop there
and I'll acknowledge that I realize some
of you have come to rely and depend on
these accounts, but this too, will have
to come to an end at some point, but there's
some things that we can continue to share
and communicate that are relevant to the
Peking to Paris Motor Challenge and we'll
continue to do so as long as they are.
With that, we'll wish you good day from
the Midwest of the United States of America
where Fall is in its glory on the shores
of Lake Winnebago in this city of Fond
du Lac. It was very impressive to people
in France that as an American, we lived
in a city with a French name. Good-bye
until the next time, which will be in
the next 24-36 hours and our update will
concentrate on the seven day visit to
Iran. Thank you and good-bye.